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Sunday, June 8, 2014

Bike Travel in the Netherlands: Part 6 (the Riders)

It's endlessly fascinating to watch the variety of people and things that are transported by bike here in the Netherlands. Biking is definitely an ordinary way to get to the office.

And it's also pretty normal to put a kid in a box to get him where he's going.

If you want to take a friend along, just have her hop on the back! Raining? Bring an umbrella.


One of the photos below show a scooter driver giving a cyclist a hand over the bridge, and if you look closely at the bottom left photo, you'll see a girl standing on her mom's rear rack while her sister rides in the front child seat. The right one shows a guy transporting some kind of furniture unit by bike.

These guys made us feel a little more at home.

But this kind of traffic was much more normal.

There are so many bikes that the need enormous parking complexes! This three-level structure is packed with bikes.

We weren't able to get photos of all of the ways that parents travel with kids (and pets!), so here's a little illustration drawn by my husband to show some of the wonderful variety of family transport modes.

One of my favorite Netherlands memories so far has to be watching a kid hop on his mom's rear rack, crouch on the saddle, and then climb into the front basket, sitting there happily with his knees held to his chest. He was completely balanced while doing this and I couldn't help but think he was staring at us the whole time, thinking we were freaks for wearing helmets. As they rode away, his mom leaned forward smiling, and kissed him on the top of the head.

Saturday, June 7, 2014

Penelope Craft Trunk Show

Last weekend I had the opportunity to do a Meet & Greet and trunk show at Penelope Craft Amsterdam. I've said it before, but the shop is beautiful, with a fantastic selection of yarn, ranging from rustic-feeling Texel wool to shimmering silks.

There are also a bunch of wonderful knitted samples, and I'm happy to add to that collection this month. If you stop by, you can see a few summery patterns - Flying Buttress Tank and Calico shawl are two breezy designs that were originally published in Knitscene, but are now available through my website and Ravelry. I also brought both the long and short versions of my Agave Tank.

My latest sweater design, Picea, along with some older favorites - Dinar Slippers and Lenke leg warmers are also on display.

The samples will be at the shop for most of June, so stop in to have a look while I wander the Netherlands!

Friday, June 6, 2014

Bike Travel in the Netherlands: Part 5 (The Bikes)

I'm not sure how to put into words how many bicycles there are here. I could look up the statistic, but instead I'll just share a handful of the different bikes we've seen around. Almost all the bikes we've seen in the city are fairly typical "Dutch" bikes, which have step-through frames for easy mounting/dismounting, swept-back handlebars that provide a very upright riding position, and some hardware on the front and/or back for carrying things. But there are all sorts of variations on this theme! Bakfiets are literally, "boxes" that are attached at the front of heavy duty bikes and are used for carrying anything from children to carpets. A lot of bikes have child seats in all different configurations.

Check out the variety:




That's a lot of bikes! But every time we thought we'd seen all the possible variations, we'd pass another one that was unique!

And, for some more knitterly bike photos, check out Stephen West and Malia Mathers with their great Dutch bikes!

We were feeling pretty different from the other riders around us our first week, with our drop handlebars and helmets (which we have continued to wear despite the peer pressure of almost no one else doing so). But then the weekend came! We went for a ride on Saturday and were surprised and delighted to be passed by a lot of riders who made us feel more at home - sporty folks in Lycra and helmets! I only wear bike shorts under cute skirts (even on tour), so I never really expected to relate to the spandex crowd, but their presence was actually reassuring. I guess some of those folks in suits and dresses that we saw riding the clunky city bikes on weekday mornings also have fast bikes at home! It makes sense that those bikes wouldn't be casually strewn along the sidewalks and fences like the everyday bikes. I guess they're kept safely inside along with the helmets.

It's fun to look at pictures of bikes, but it's even more fun to see people riding them! Next time I'll share photos of lots of different riders, their bikes, and the way they transport their kids!

Thursday, June 5, 2014

Bike Travel in the Netherlands: Part 4

Yesterday we rode from Amsterdam to Den Helder and took the ferry to Texel. We spent the day today riding around Texel and seeing many, many sheep. And there were cats all over the place. I particularly appreciated this kitty sleeping next to a novelty cat toilet paper holder.


We had breakfast in the town of Den Berg, which had really charming narrow, winding streets and interesting old architecture.

Like the rest of the Netherlands that we've seen so far, Texel is an excellent place to ride, with wide cycle lanes and a beautiful and varied landscape. And as a bonus, the island is covered with sheep! I particularly adore the sheep that have so much wool they're completely round. And the tiny baby sheep.

The sheep produce a wonderful wool and, while I'm not sure it's available in North America, if you come to Amsterdam, you can get it at Penelope Craft.

I had a great time at Sunday's meet & greet, and I left my trunk show at the shop while I ride around the country. So if you didn't get a chance to come in on Sunday, do stop by this month to see the samples on display and get some Texel wool while you're there!

 

Sunday, June 1, 2014

Bike Travel in the Netherlands: Part 3

After arriving safely in Amsterdam, we decided to ride to our campsite. There is a train that goes from the airport into downtown, which could have gotten us most of the way, but we still had over an hour of daylight, and we thought a nice ride would help reinvigorate us after being in cramped airplanes for so many hours.

We got a GPS for this trip (the Garmin Etrex 30 - thanks for the help choosing this, cyclists of Twitter!), and, while it was a bit slow at first, it definitely got us to our destination, and seems to be working more consistently and well now. It's been really nice not having to worry about looking at maps or trying to follow a map on the phone. (The GPS gives us turn-by-turn directions.)

The cycling infrastructure here really has to be ridden to be believed. We rode just over 20km from the airport and were on a road without a dedicated bike lane for maybe a kilometer or two of that. In the heart of the city, we spent a lot of the time next to cars in bike lanes, but most of our ride was on bike-only roads that run parallel to the car roads. They were completely separated, even at intersections! I say "roads" rather than "paths" or "trails" because in most places, there was as much consideration taken for the bike infrastructure as there was for the car infrastructure, including dedicated traffic lights and multiple lanes. Sidewalks and areas for pedestrians are separate from bike roads.

Bike traffic light

Aside from the traffic lights, there are other hints about how to behave when cycling. At every intersection there are a series of triangles. If they point toward you, you're required to yield to oncoming traffic (be it bicycle or car traffic). If the triangles point away from you, however, you have the right of way.

Despite the incredible infrastructure, three things made riding in the city a bit challenging. First, motorized scooters are allowed on the bike roads, and a bunch of these zoomed past us, which was a little unnerving. Second, after living in the country, we're not very used to riding alongside other cyclists! Riding in the city felt a lot more like driving, with ton of bike traffic on the roads (even after 11pm on a Tuesday night), and the other cyclists are obviously a lot more competent on the cycle roads than we are. It's definitely important to be confident and not hesitate as you flow with the traffic. And third, there are trollies that travel throughout the city. That means there are train tracks. I've wiped out on the South Lake Union tracks in Seattle before, so these always make me pretty wary, though I have yet to have a scare with the Amsterdam tracks. I appreciate the public transit, but nothing will make me like train tracks.

Trolley tracks are not my friend


Bike lanes that aren't separated from the street are marked with the usual white bicycle outline that we have in bike lanes in a North America, but I love that these ones look like the typical Dutch bike including swept-back handlebars and a chain guard.

A Dutch bike lane!

It was particularly fun getting a little lesson in Amsterdam cycling by riding behind Stephen West and Malia Mathers of Penelope Craft following the Penelope Thursday night Knit Night. We really appreciated them showing us the way!

Stephen & Malia showing us how they do it in Amsterdam

We spent some time yesterday afternoon just standing on the sidewalk observing the traffic flowing by, and it was really interesting not only to see how riders acted, but also the kinds of bikes they rode and the amazing collection of things and people they transported. Bikes and cargo are full blog entries in themselves, so keep an eye out soon for those.

Being in Amsterdam feels a little bit like an alternate universe - it's the bike universe, in which riding is not a statement, or even particularly interesting. The Dutch seem to be bicycle enthusiasts in the same way as Americans are car enthusiasts- certain people definitely care about their bikes, but most people just use them to get around without giving it much thought.

 

Saturday, May 31, 2014

Penelope Craft Night

On Thursday nights, the folks at Penelope Craft host knit night and I was so excited that part of my stay in Amsterdam fell on a Thursday.

Penelope Craft

I got the chance to knit with some Dutch folks who live in the States and some Americans who live in the Netherlands! Of course their were local folks as well and we all had a great time knitting and enjoying drinks, treats, and conversation.

Stephen West is among the regulars on Thursday nights & the whole group was so fun to knit with!

I loved the diversity of this group and it was really interesting hearing the conversation go from English to Dutch and back again. Not only did we get to hang out knitting, but I also checked out the great yarn slection at Penelope. She's got some things I'm quite familiar with like Tosh and Malabrigo, but it was particularly fun getting to feel wooly wool from Texel (an island north of Amsterdam) and a wide selection of Quince and Co. I haven't ever actually seen Owl before and it's so completely lovely. I adore the color palette too.

Appropriately for Amsterdam, the shop has a bike theme and I loved the sweet yarn bombed bike that sits out front. Don't forget my trunk show and meet & greet at the shop tomorrow, Sunday, June 1 from 13:00-16:00. I'd love to see you all there!
Kerkstraat 117
Amsterdam, Noord-Holland 1017GE
Netherlands
+31 (06) 142 77733

Friday, May 30, 2014

Bike Travel in the Netherlands: Part 2 (Air Travel)

When we started planning our bike tour, I was really curious how other people get their bikes on planes. It seemed kind of nerve wrecking and complicated, so we read a whole lot about what kinds of experiences other cyclist have had, and that was really helpful. Here's how it worked for us.

Our gear setup

We arrived early at the Vancouver airport so we could be pretty careful about prepping our bikes for air travel and take our time doing it, but it wasn't too involved. We removed the pedals, lowered our saddles (after marking the seat posts with sharpie to remember the appropriate height), turned the handlebars so they were parallel to the rest of the bike, and secured the front wheels to the frame with some webbing straps to keep them from flopping around. Since rear derailleurs are so delicate, we detached them and wrapped them in styrofoam padding and then secured them to the frame. We also let all the air out of our tires. It seems like that wasn't really necessary for the bikes themselves, but the airlines seem to prefer it, and the fellow at inspection did ask us, "Any CO2?" I assumed he meant the air in our tires, though I suppose it's also possible he was asking if we had CO2 cartridges on us.


The plastic bike bags all folded up
We did all our prep at the outside entrance of the Vancouver airport after riding from Cowichan Bay to Vancouver (via two ferries). After prepping the bikes and putting tags on them with our names & address, we put them in giant plastic bags, which we sealed with duct tape. (We ordered the bags online from a company called Wiggle in the UK.) Unfortunately, after we'd taken such care to pack and seal the bags, a security officer inspecting the bikes cut a hole in each of our bags in order to put the explosives-detector wand in there. I know I had the most horrified look on my face as he was cutting because I really didn't want to just damage the bags for no reason. He put a big piece of tape over the hole that said "Inspected". We'll definitely use the bags to get the bikes home, but I don't know what kind of shape they'll be in after that and if we'll be able to use them again.

Bikes packed and ready for transport
After the security inspection, a guy from the airline came up and hand carried the bikes down to be put on theplane. He seemed to be treating them with care and told us they were in good hands.

One quick note - Vancouver airport security confiscated our chain lube, and at every security checkpoint we went through, we got searched extra. The things that seemed to invite scrutiny were our U-locks/cables (we always use both in combination to secure our bikes), our bike pump, and our tools - more about that later.

Our nearly 9-hour overnight flight from Vancouver to London went by surprisingly quickly. I actually slept most of the way, so much so that I didn't take out my knitting once, which is really unusual for me.

We flew on British Air and I was surprised that they actually gave us some things for free - most importantly, they checked our bikes free. They let you take at least one free checked bag per person and the bikes don't cost anything extra! Beware, though, that they'll probably tell you that you get two free checked bags rather than one; we discovered after we'd bought our tickets that our economy class tickets only came with one even though we were told on the phone that all tickets include two free checked bags. We had to spend an extra $160 to check a box with two of our panniers in it, so it brought the cost of our ticket up, and we had to ride to the airport with a flattened cardboard box on the back of one of our bikes, but it still wasn't too bad.) We also got free wine, dinner, and breakfast on the long flight. I can't remember the last time I got a bag of peanuts for free on a plane, so that was pretty nice.

Our time at the London airport, where we had our layover, was probably the most stressful part of our trip. Having been worried that our checked box could get lost, we kept some essential gear, including the tools, in our carryon luggage. I think we'll risk checking the tools next time, though, because we had a slight scare at security when a security officer thought she ought to take away our wrench and bike tool kit, without which, we'd have been stuck stuck at the Amsterdam airport, unable to reattach our pedals, raise our saddles, or turn our handlebars. Happily a supervisor said there was no need to confiscate any of it.

I have to say, too, that the London (Heathrow) airport security apparatus felt very much like that of a Distopian Police State. I appreciate them keeping us safe, and I don't have the background info to judge how necessary or successful it is, but it did seem that every person was treated as a suspect, and the whole thing felt creepy and invasive. The security officers were very polite, though, and seemed to be doing their jobs well. (Maybe it was the matte black rubber gloves they all wore that freaked me out.)

Getting through the Amsterdam airport was much easier. Apparently cycle touring is not something that gets extra scrutiny, because we breezed through customs after just a few questions. The security officer also spoke English, which was expected, but still so helpful. It's really nice how much English is present here.

We've never flown with our bikes before, so we were pretty nervous about them being okay after the flight. But just like a baggage handler had hand carried them to the plane, someone hand carried them into the baggage terminal for us! They were never even on a conveyor belt that we saw. (I did see two bikes packed in those big canvas bike bags come rolling down the luggage belt, so I'm not sure how carefully they were treated in comparison with our plastic-bagged bikes.) Our plastic bags had huge gashes in them next to the top tubes where people had obviously cut them to make carrying easier, which was a little distressing, but the bikes themselves were totally undamaged. It took us about an hour to re-assemble and adjust the bikes, as well as re-pack. No one seemed to care that we did all of that in the baggage claim area.

The bags were damaged, but at least our bikes weren't

It was intimidating to do for the first time, but overall, traveling with our bikes went really smoothly. Next time, like I said, we'll pack our tools in our checked luggage to avoid any chance of them being taken away. I think I'll also try to pack more heavy stuff in the checked luggage and just have faith that the box will make it. It was pretty uncomfortable carrying a full and very heavy pannier through several airports. I adore my Ortlieb panniers for on-bike use, but off the bike, they're pretty uncomfortable and unwieldy to carry.

One thing to mention is that I'm carrying some extra non-cycling stuff that makes everything heavier - a bunch of knitted samples for my Penelope Craft trunk show, some printed patterns (paper is heavy!), and five knitting projects, which, I obviously need. (They're for work!) The patterns and the samples will be left at Penelope Craft while we're on the road, so I won't be doing the rest of the tour with them, though the knitting projects are, of course, coming along.

We haven't done our return journey yet, so I'll have to report back if we have a significantly different experience going the other direction.

How have you traveled with bikes? Any recommendations?

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