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Friday, September 23, 2016

View Royal Cardigan

I'm taking a break from Rugged Knits patterns this week to talk about a new cardigan I've got out! View Royal is an indie pattern that I originally designed for the Neighborhood Fiber Outerloop Sweater Club, but I'm happy to have gotten the rights back to it just in time for sweater weather. I've gotten the hang of talking about the different elements of a pattern through my Rugged Knits pattern highlights, though, so I'm going to keep that format for this one.




CONSTRUCTION
- It's worked bottom-up with just enough seams to keep everything stable. The body is worked in one piece and split at the underarms to work back and fronts separately. The sleeves are worked in the round to the sleeve cap, then back and forth to get that lovely set-in sleeve shape.

- The shoulders are joined using 3-needle bind-off and the sleeve caps are sewn in using mattress stitch. This allows a very neat, trim fit and adds stability where it's needed most.

- Cast-on and bind-off edges are tubular for that perfect ribbed edge.

- Colorwork cuffs add feminine drama to the whole sweater.

- The neckline is trimmed with I-cord, making a clean finish.

FIT
- The intended fit is pretty standard: 2-4 in/5-10 cm of positive ease. The sweater in the pictures is the 34 in/86.5 cm and fits me with 3 in/7.5 cm of ease.

- Set-in sleeve caps, waist shaping and short row shoulder shaping create a flattering, feminine fit.

YARN
The yarn I used in this pattern is Neighborhood Fiber Skyline Aran, which was a special base created just for Neighborhood Fiber's sweater club this year. If you weren't a part of the club, you'll probably need to substitute. Skyline Aran is actually classified as a bulky with a recommended gauge of 3-4 sts = 1 in/2.5 cm. It's 100% Targhee wool and is a plied, round, bouncy yarn.

TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- Choose something with resilience/bounce since the fabric is fairly heavy and the pattern doesn't include side seams. I recommend using wool or a wool blend.

- Neighborhood Fiber Co. Studio Chunky could be a good alternative. It's a superwash merino, so the fiber isn't exactly the same, but the construction is really similar and it comes in gorgeous colors.

- For a more rustic look, Imperial Yarn Columbia would be a great option. It's tweedy, but soft and buttery. (My Valley Trail Pullover is a colorwork sweater worked at the same gauge in this yarn.)

- Hinterland Range is a yarn I'm really in love with right now. It's a 50/50 wool/alpaca blend, so it has a lovely halo, and it's woolen spun, so it's light and blooms like nothing I've ever seen. It comes in gorgeous natural colors and the fibre is grown and spun here in Canada. (The alpaca fibre is actually from my friend's alpaca farm here in Victoria!)

- Quince & Co. Osprey is another option. It's a bit more loosely spun and just has 2 plies, but it's a lovely, soft yarn in a beautiful color palette.

MY FAVORITE DETAIL
I love the placement of the colorwork cuff detail. It's particularly fun that the gauge is pretty chunky so the colorwork is at a bigger scale than you often see.

GENERAL TIPS
Be sure to swatch in both colorwork and Stockinette. A lot of knitters need to use a larger needle in colorwork to maintain gauge.

Be sure to use the hashtags #ViewRoyalCardigan and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Wheat Creek projects!

UPCOMING EVENTS
I'm teaching at Knit City in Vancouver October 1-2, 2016. There are still spots to sign up for my classes on pi shawls and yarn substitution! Click here to sign up.

I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!

PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements
Bust Circumference: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58) in/86.5 (96.5, 106.5, 117, 127, 137, 147.5) cm

Intended to be worn with +2–4 in/5–10 cm of ease at bust for standard fit; shown in size 34 in/86.5 cm with +3 in/7.5 cm of ease on model

Yarn
Aran weight yarn in two colors:

Main Color: 1010 (1129, 1248, 1367, 1486, 1605, 1723) yd/924 (1032, 1141, 1250, 1359, 1468, 1576) m
Contrast Color: 75 (75, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95) yd/69 (69, 69, 73, 78, 82, 87) m

Shown in Neighborhood Fiber Company Skyline Aran (100% Targhee Wool; 210 yd/192 m per 4oz/114 g skein) in Esquimalt (MC): 5 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9) skeins and Roland Park (CC): 1 skein

Needles
Needle sizes are recommendations only; always use needle size necessary to achieve given gauge.

32 in/80 cm circular needle:
Needle A: US #7/4.5 mm, Needle B: US #8/5 mm

Set double-pointed needles (dpns), long circular for magic loop method, or two circular needles (preferred small- circumference circular knitting method):

Needle C: US #7/4.5 mm, Needle D: US #8/5 mm, Needle E: US #9/5.5 mm (optional for color work)

spare 32 in/80 cm or longer circular needle in the same size or slightly smaller than Needle A (for tubular BO): 2 US #7/4.5 mm dpns for I-Cord Neckline Edging

Notions
waste yarn
7 stitch markers
tapestry needle
seven .75 in/2 cm buttons needle and thread

Gauge
Gauge measurement should be taken after blocking.
16 sts/24 rnds = 4 in/10 cm in St st and stranded Stitch Pattern with Needle B or D (suggested size US #8/5 mm)

See it on Ravelry



$8 pdf download


Thursday, September 15, 2016

Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight: Wheat Creek

Because the garment samples for Rugged Knits had to fit Interweave's models, they're all about one size too big for me. I'm already working on making my own Hazy Cloud, but this week's pattern highlight, Wheat Creek, is one that can be worn with a bit of a relaxed fit, so I'm definitely adding it to my wardrobe once the collection has done the trunk show rounds.




CONSTRUCTION
- The rugged vibe is strong with this one. It's worked in pieces and seamed to add extra stability and durability. (If you're really averse to seaming, it's totally possible to work fronts and back all together, but I think the seams are worth it.)

- It starts off with a provisional cast-on and a lovely decorative turned hem. The inside of the hem is Stockinette stitch to avoid bulk, but the outside is this great crossover stitch pattern that's fun and a bit magical to work.
- Pockets are patch-pocket style, so they're knit separately and then sewn on. They're big enough to keep your hands warm and hold important stuff, and the diagonal shape makes them easy to slip your hands into.
- The shoulders are joined using 3-needle bind-off on the outside, creating a decorative ridge. This detail was inspired by traditional Cowichan knitting.
- Collar, button band and buttonhole band are picked up and worked last.
- The edgings are all worked in garter stitch, making for clean, cozy finishing.
- The collar is shaped using short rows and can be worn up as shown in the photos or folded over as a slim shawl collar.

FIT
- The intended fit is fairly slim, so the pattern recommends wearing it with 0-2 in/0-5 cm of positive ease. The model is wearing it with about 0 ease. But I love it on me with about 4 in/10 cm of ease.

- Waist shaping and short row shaping at the shoulders make a flattering, slim fit.

YARN
This one is worked up in a fantastic semi-woolen spun yarn that's grown and spun in Wyoming, Sincere Sheep Equity Sport. It's extremely bouncy and has a rustic quality, while still being very soft since the fibre is 100% Rambouillet.  


TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- To get a similar vibe, I recommend a yarn that's bouncy and nice and woolly. Brooklyn Tweed Loft could be a good substitute, though it has a drier, lighter feel to it.
- For a smoother look, Quince and Co. Chickadee could be a good choice.

MY FAVORITE DETAIL
I love that this one is fairly simple in appearance, but that delicate hem is just the sweetest little bit of something special.

GENERAL TIPS
Try the Crossover Stitch pattern on your swatch so you know what you're doing when you start your project.


Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #WheatCreek, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Wheat Creek projects!

UPCOMING EVENTS
I'm teaching at Knit City in Vancouver October 1-2, 2016. Looks like there's one spot left in my Finishing class, and there are still spots to sign up for my classes on pi shawls and yarn substitution! Click here to sign up.

I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!

PATTERN DETAILS


Finished Measurements

31.75 (35, 38, 41.5, 46, 48.5)” (80.5 89, 96.5, 105.5, 117, 123 cm) bust circumference, with 1⁄2 (1⁄2, 1⁄2,3⁄4,3⁄4, 1)” (1.3 1.3, 1.3, 2, 2, 2.5 cm) overlap and 23 (23.5, 24, 24.25, 24.25, 24.25)” (58.5 59.5, 61, 61.5, 61.5, 62 cm) long.

Shown in size 35” (89 cm). 
Intended to be worn with 0–2” (0–5 cm) of positive ease.

Yarn 

900 (996, 1096, 1193, 1317, 1389) yd (823 911, 1002, 1091, 1204, 1270 m) Sportweight (#2 Fine).

Shown here: Sincere Sheep Equity Sport (100% wool; 200 yd 183 m/2 oz 56 g): color Dark Gray, 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) skeins.

Needles 

Size U.S. 2 (2.75 mm): 16” and 60” (40 and 150 cm) long circular (cir) needle. 
Size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm) needles. 
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions

Size U.S. C-2 (2.75 mm) crochet 

hook; markers (m); stitch holders; waste yarn; tapestry needle; five 5/8” (15 mm) buttons.

Gauge

241⁄2 sts and 40 rows = 4” (10 cm) over St st using larger needle.


See it on Ravelry

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Friday, September 9, 2016

Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight: Woolen Explorer

This week's Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight is one of my favorites in the collection - Woolen Explorer. This is a hard-wearing, super functional cardigan (with giant pockets!) inspired by the Icelandic Lopapeysa tradition. I even knit my sample out of Icelandic wool - Istex Lettlopi. It's a really special yarn from one of the world's heritage sheep breeds. The Icelandic sheep grazing today are almost unchanged from those that have been there for 1100 years. (This article from Modern Farmer has some lovely descriptions of Icelandic wool.) This sweater was one of the most troublesome to design (I re-worked the colorwork, collar, button band, and all sorts of elements many times before I was satisfied), but I'm in love with the result. Here in the PNW, this is almost more coat that sweater, and I'm really looking forward to knitting up one for myself.



CONSTRUCTION
- Worked seamlessly, bottom-up, this sweater includes steek stitches and the front is cut open to create the cardigan.

- Pocket linings are worked first and then incorporated into the body as the body is worked. The linings are then sewn down on the inside of the jacket during finishing. Ribbed pocket edgings are picked up and added after sewing the linings.
- Body and sleeves are worked separately, then joined to work the yoke. 
- The collar is worked to double its length, then, after reinforcing and cutting the steek, it's folded down and whipstitched to the inside.
- Button band and buttonhole band are picked up and worked last.

FIT
- This sweater is really versatile in fit. The sample is shown worn with a very oversized fit, like a big coat, and I had in fact expected the sample to be photographed on the male model. I was surprised to see it photographed on one of the women, but it looks so perfect on her! I wouldn't have thought to try it that way, and that kind of unexpected styling is why I love collaborating.

- I have two different recommended ease categories for this one: For the oversized fit shown on the model, knit one that's 9−13 in/23−33 cm larger than the wearer's chest circumference. For a more standard relaxed fit, make yours 2−4 in/5−10 cm larger than the wearer's chest circumference. And as I say that, I actually think I'm going to go somewhere in between when I knit one for myself and make the 37.75 in/96 cm size, which will be about 6.75 in of ease on me.
- There are instructions for two different sleeve length options, one designed for standard women's sleeve lengths and one for men's/tall (or just long-armed) sleeve lengths. Check out the schematic to see which one is right for you.
- The fit is intended to be somewhat boxy, so waist shaping isn't included in the instructions. But the body is worked all in Stockinette stitch, so if you know you prefer some shaping, it wouldn't be difficult to add a few decreases and increases.

YARN
I mentioned above that Istex Lettlopi is a special yarn. It's got some really interesting characteristics that make it great for working up a rugged, long-lasting coat. It's surprisingly light but very warm. If you're used to very soft yarns, you'll probably find it to be rough because the softer undercoat fibers are spun together with coarser fibers, but it softens up with wearing and washing, and it's intended as outerwear, so you can always add a barrier layer if it seems to prickly to wear right next to your skin. If you haven't ever tried it, it's really affordable - I really recommend getting your hands on a skein and swatching with it to see what you think.


TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING

- Since Lettlopi is such a unique yarn, any substitution will result in a really different fabric, but as long as you know what you're looking for, there are lots of possibilities.
- It's worsted weight and worked at 18 sts = 4 in/10 cm. There are a lot of yarns that would work really well at that gauge.
- I recommend picking something that's a bit sticky to help keep everything in place when you cut your steek. Superwash yarn is probably not ideal because it's slippery and tends to grow vertically with wear. (Having said that, though, a whole lot of knitters have made my Knitter's Dude with The Plucky Knitter Scholar, a superwash MCN, and have been happy with their finished sweaters. The Knitter's Dude is a tighter gauge sweater with more colorwork in the body, so make sure you know what you're getting into if you decide to go this route.)
- If you're a fan of Brooklyn Tweed Shelter, that could be a great option. It's light and woolly and works great for steeking.
- For something incredibly cozy, I'd love to see this in Malabrigo Merino Worsted. It pills like crazy, but the colors are gorgeous and it's the cuddliest yarn I've ever worked with.
- Another yarn I love is Cestari Traditional 2-Ply. I think it would give you an equally long-lasting, rustic sweater, but it's quite a bit softer. Avoid the marled colors if you want crisp, clear colorwork though.

MY FAVORITE DETAIL
That yoke! My husband Sean designed the colorwork and I'm so pleased with how it came out. I also love the sharply contrasting cuffs, hem, and bands. They're not traditional, but I appreciate how they frame everything.

GENERAL TIPS
A lot of knitters work more tightly in stranded colorwork than in Stockinette, so be sure you're using a larger needle for the colorwork section if you need to to maintain gauge.

Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #WoolenExplorer
, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Pathfinder Buff projects!


UPCOMING EVENTS
I'm teaching at Knit City in Vancouver October 1-2, 2016. Looks like there's one spot left in my Finishing class, and there are still spots to sign up for my classes on pi shawls and yarn substitution! Click here to sign up.

I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!

PATTERN DETAILS


Finished Measurements

33.75 (37.75, 41.25, 45.25, 49.25, 53, 57)” (85.5 
96, 105, 115, 125, 134.5, 145 cm) bust/chest circumference with 1” (2.5 cm) overlap and 26 (26.75, 27.25, 28.5, 29.25, 29.75, 30.5)” (66 68, 69, 72.5, 74.5, 75.5, 77.5 cm) long.

Intended to be worn with “2−4” (5−10 cm) of positive ease for standard fit or 9−13 in (23−33) cm for oversized fit. Shown with oversized fit. 
Shown in size 45.25” (115 cm).

Yarn 

Worsted weight (#4 medium). 
Main Color (MC): 811 (907, 993, 1089, 1185, 1270, 1366) yd (741 829, 908, 996, 1083, 1161, 1249 m). 
Contrast Color 1 (CC1): 280 (313, 343, 376, 409, 439, 472) yd (256 286, 313, 344, 374, 401, 431 m). 
Contrast Color 2 (CC2): 93 (104, 114, 125, 136, 146, 157) yd (85 95, 104, 114, 124, 133, 143 m).

Shown here: Ístex Lettlopi (100% wool; 109 yd 100 m/50 g skein): colors #0086 Light Beige Heather (MC), 8 (9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 13) skeins; #0005 Black Heather (CC1), 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins; #0054 Light Ash Heather (CC2), 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s).

Needles 

Size U.S. 6 (4 mm): 16” and 32” (40 and 80 cm) long circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double- pointed (dpn). 
Size U.S. 8 (5 mm): 24” and 32” (60 and80 cm) long circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double- pointed (dpn). 
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauges.

Notions
Stitch markers (m); stitch holders; waste yarn; size C-2 (2.75 mm) crochet hook; tapestry needle; ten 9/16” (14 mm) buttons.


Gauge

18 sts and 26 rows = 4” (10 cm) over St st using smaller needles. 
18 sts and 24 rows = 4” (10 cm) over Color Patt using larger needles.


See it on Ravelry

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Friday, September 2, 2016

Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight: Pathfinder Buff

It's starting to feel a tiny bit like fall, and I'm sure I'm not alone in my excitement for the approach of sweater weather.  If you're still feeling summer, though, this week's Rugged Knits pattern highlight is the perfect quick project to ease you into fall. The Pathfinder Buff is a neck-hugging cowl with a fun texture that'll be great to pop over your head when the weather starts to chill. I particularly had cool-weather cycling in mind for this one, and the textured pattern was actually inspired by the tread on my bike tires.






CONSTRUCTION
- Worked top-down with increases worked into the pattern for subtle shaping. 

- The textured stitch pattern is only shown on charts, not written out line-by-line.

FIT
- Wear this one tight around the neck to keep out drafts without any extra bulk. It's probably a bit smaller than your head circumference so it'll stretch as you pull it on.


YARN
I love the Hazel Knits DK Lively that I knit my sample in. It's a superwash merino with a bunch of tightly-twisted plies, so even with the gorgeous semi-solid colors, it's got great stitch definition. It's super soft and incredibly bouncy.


TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING

- Since it's worn directly on your neck, I recommend picking something pretty soft.
- Smooth, multi-plied yarns with a tight twist are recommended to get the stitch definition.
- Cashmere and silk are wonderful, but keep in mind that if you pick a yarn that's too buttery soft, it could slouch down more than is shown in the sample.
- If you just can't get ahold of Hazel Knits DK Lively, Baah Sonoma is another hand dyed superwash DK yarn that comes in lots of lovely colors.
- For even more texture, try Fibre Company Acadia. It's pretty tweedy and not very smooth, so the stitch pattern isn't going to pop, but this yarn is gorgeous and incredibly soft.


MY FAVORITE DETAIL
The fit on this is just perfect for so many activities.

GENERAL TIPS
Be sure to swatch in the textured stitch pattern since it spreads out quite a bit more than Stockinette would.

Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #PathfinderBuff
, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Pathfinder Buff projects!

UPCOMING EVENTS
I'm teaching at Knit City in Vancouver October 1-2, 2016. Both sessions of my Finishing class have already sold out, but there's still space to sign up for my classes on pi shawls and yarn substitution! Click here to sign up.

I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!

PATTERN DETAILS


Finished Measurements

17.75” (45 cm) top circumference, 19” (48.5 cm) bottom circumference, and 10” (25.5 cm) long.

Yarn 

159 yd (145 m) DK weight (#3 Light). 

Shown here: Hazel Knits Lively DK (90% superwash merino, 10% nylon; 275 yd 251 m/130 g): color White Wing Dove, 1 skein.

Needles 

Size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): 16” (40 cm) circular (cir). 
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions
Marker (m); tapestry needle.


Gauge

19 sts and 29 rnds = 4” (10 cm) over chart patt.

See it on Ravelry

Thursday, August 25, 2016

Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight: Braided Brook

Before I begin, I want to give a quick public service announcement - Shannon Cook is giving away a copy of Rugged Knits on her blog, Very Shannon! She's also got a lovely review of the book, so head on over for your chance to win!

Okay, back to this week's post!

I'm particularly proud of this week's Rugged Knits pattern highlight, Braided Brook. When I started working on the book I knew I wanted to include a really glorious cabled sweater and it came out just as I had hoped. The central cable pattern was created through a collaboration with my husband. I've mentioned before how he works with me on color charts, but cables were a special challenge. We definitely went through several iterations of this pattern to get it to be striking and also actually physically possible to knit. I love that this finished sweater combines a relaxed, cozy look with the fit and slouchy cowl neck, with dramatic elegance that all-over cabled texture can provide.





CONSTRUCTION
- Worked bottom-up in pieces, then blocked and assembled. The cowl neck is the final step. 

- Working this sweater in pieces has a bunch of advantages. Seams offer stability and reinforcement, which can be important given the fabric is fairly heavy and dense, and I worked my sample in an alpaca-blend yarn, which could stretch over time without the help of seams. Working in pieces also means your project is never so huge that it gets cumbersome, and you only have to focus on parts of the cable charts at once.
- It features lots of details that make for a flattering fit: set-in sleeves, waist shaping that's worked into the cable pattern, and sloped shoulders.

FIT
- The fit is relaxed. I recommend 3-5" (7.5-12.5 cm) of positive ease to get the look shown in the sample photos.


YARN
I knit my sample in a great staple yarn - Berroco Ultra Alpaca. It's a 50/50 wool/alpaca blend and I love that it gives most of the resilience and bounce of wool while also offering a subtle halo and a bit of extra warmth from the alpaca content. It's a multi-plied worsted spun yarn with a pretty tight twist, so it gives amazing stitch definition, but it also has a very soft look.



TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING

- Depending on the look you want, there are a lot of different options for this sweater. Ultra Alpaca is a pretty standard worsted, so first look for yarns that recommend about 20 sts = 4" (10 cm). I do recommend opting for a fairly soft yarn since the cowl neck is bound to be right on the skin.
- For a light, tweedy look, try one of my favorite yarns, Brooklyn Tweed Shelter or Hikoo Kenzie.
- If you want something with a clean, sophisticated look, how about  Quince & Co. Lark?
- The semisolid colors of Hazel Knits Cadence would create an artsy, watercolor feel with popping stitch definition. 
- I'm considering making a sweater for myself in O-Wool Balance, a 50/50 wool/cotton blend. I've got a sweater's-worth in Sapphire & I think this would be a great option for anyone worrying that it could be too warm in alpaca.


MY FAVORITE DETAIL
Those cables are so dreamy!

GENERAL TIPS
Cables cause fabric to draw in very dramatically, so be sure to use a yarn that's based on the recommended gauge of the sample yarn (about 20 sts = 4" (10 cm)) rather than going with the gauge over the cable pattern. The pattern gives gauge in Stockinette and cables, as well as the width of the central cable panel to help you check your gauge.

Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #Braided Brook, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Braided Brook projects!

UPCOMING EVENTS
I'm teaching at Knit City in Vancouver October 1-2, 2016. Both sessions of my Finishing class have already sold out, but there's still space to sign up for my classes on pi shawls and yarn substitution! Click here to sign up.


I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!

PATTERN DETAILS


Finished Measurements

34.5 (38, 42.5, 47, 51, 55)” (87.5 (96.5, 108, 119.5, 129.5, 139.5) cm bust circumference, and 24 (24.5, 25.5, 26, 27, 27.5)” (61 62, 65, 66, 68.5, 70 cm) length

Intended to be worn with 3–5” (7.5–13 cm) of positive ease 
Shown in size 38” (96.5 cm)

Yarn 

1296 (1438, 1589, 1740, 1901, 2043) yd (1185 1315, 1453, 1591, 1738, 1868 m) worsted weight (#4 Medium) yarn

Shown here: Berroco Ultra Alpaca (50% alpaca, 50% wool; 215 yd 197 m/100 g): color #62111 Zephyr, 7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 10) skeins

Needles 

Size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm) straight and 24” (60 cm) long circular (cir) 
Size U.S. 6 (4 mm) 24” (60 cm) long circular (cir) 
Size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm) straight and 24” (60 cm) long circular (cir) 
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauges.

Notions
Stitch markers (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle

Gauge

20 sts and 27 rows = 4” (10 cm) over St st using largest needles 
26 sts and 27 rows = 4” (10 cm) over side cables using largest needles 
34-st Sleeve Cable Panel = 41⁄2” (11.5 cm) wide 74-st Center Cable Panel = 71⁄2” (19 cm) wide

See it on Ravelry

Thursday, August 18, 2016

Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight: Surging River

I've got a thing for super bulky shawls, so I couldn't do an entire book without including one. This week's Rugged Knits pattern highlight, Surging River, has a simple but beautiful lace edging and a cozy Stockinette body. Work one up in no time for a gorgeous winter accessory for yourself or to give as a gift!






CONSTRUCTION
- Worked bottom-up, starting with the lace edging. 

- During the Stockinette section, the shawl is decreased at the center and sides to create a triangle shape.
- The final few stitches are grafted together using Kitchener stitch for a clean finish.

FIT
- This is a fairly large shawl - 66" (167.5 cm) across the top wingspan. Since it's a full triangle rather than a crescent, there's a lot of cozy fabric to keep you warm.


YARN
Imperial Yarn Native Twist (100% wool; 150 yd/4 oz hank) is a super bulky yarn (recommended gauge is 12-14 sts = 4" (10 cm)) that's lofty. It relaxes beautifully when washed.

- I worked it at an even looser gauge for this project - 10 sts = 4" (10 cm) - so that the resulting fabric is draping and airy.
- It's quite soft and cozy!


TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING

- Last week's pattern, Textured Wisp, was also worked in super bulky yarn and the yarns for these two projects are mostly interchangeable.
- If you're going for lofty and airy, like is shown in the photos, I recommend loosely spun super bulky yarns like Quince and Co. Puffin, and Hinterland Watershed.
- This one could also be beautiful in a denser yarn like Malabrigo Rasta or Madelinetosh Home. Both of these yarns recommend a denser gauge than the sample yarn (8-10 sts = 4" (10 cm)), so you'd get a much heavier fabric, but the shine, drape, and depth of color could be incredible.
- I think this could be incredibly soft, light, and cozy in Rowan Brushed Fleece, though the lace would be more hinted at rather than popping since the yarn is very, very fluffy. Swatch before you knit, though! This is a really different yarn and it could be a bit hole-y at the pattern gauge since its recommended gauge is 13 sts = 4" (10 cm).


MY FAVORITE DETAIL
I never get tired of oversized lace motifs! They juxtapose elegant sweetness with boldness and that combination is pretty much my life goal.

GENERAL TIPS
You can easily change the size of this shawl by casting on more or fewer 14-stitch repeats of the lace pattern.

Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #SurgingRiver, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Surging River projects!

UPCOMING EVENTS
I'm teaching at Knit City in Vancouver October 1-2, 2016. Both sessions of my Finishing class have already sold out, but there's still space to sign up for my classes on pi shawls and yarn substitution! Click here to sign up.


I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!

PATTERN DETAILS


Finished Size

66” (167.5 cm) wide and 29” (73.5 cm) long.

Yarn 

544 yd (497 m) chunky weight (#5 Super Bulky).

Shown here: Imperial Yarn Native Twist (100% wool; 150 yd/4 oz hank): color #06 Cobalt Blue, 4 hanks.

Needles 

Needles 
Size U.S. 13 (9 mm) 40” (100 cm) or longer circular (cir). 
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions
Markers (m); removable marker; tapestry needle.

Gauge

10 sts and 15 rows = 4” (10 cm) over St st.

See it on Ravelry

Friday, August 12, 2016

Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight: Textured Wisp

Last weekend I got the chance to talk to a whole lot of knitters about Rugged Knits at Beehive Wool Shop. Thanks so much to those of you who came! I helped knitters pick out yarn for a bunch of projects, but I had a lot of fun figuring out the best yarn to substitute for this vest since the Imperial Yarn Bulky 2 Strand wasn't available. We ended up going with yarn from a local friend of mine - Hinterland Watershed





CONSTRUCTION
- Worked bottom-up in the round to the armholes, then front and back are worked back and forth. 

- Shoulders joined using 3-needle bind-off for a firm seam that adds durability.
- The armhole and neck edgings are picked up after joining the shoulders and are worked with short row shaping for a flattering sleeve cap look that's reflected in the neck trim.

FIT
- Wear this vest with
 +1-3 in/2.5-7.5 cm of positive ease. Avoid going too oversized - you don't want the relatively thick fabric to stand out from your body.
- Gentle waist shaping and short row shoulder shaping make for a great fit.

YARN
Imperial Yarn Bulky 2 Strand (100% wool; 200 yd 183 m/116 g skein) is an un-spun roving yarn that is very delicate as you knit with it, but creates a gorgeous and amazingly light fabric.

- I chose this one particularly for its loft, and it's why the pattern is called a "Wisp." 
- It knits up at a very chunky gauge - the recommended gauge is 12 sts = 4 in/10 cm and I knit it up with the textured stitch pattern at 9 sts = 4 in/10 cm.
- This yarn is really soft and the resulting fabric is incredibly cuddly.


TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING

- Like last week's pattern, Elderberry Road, the textured stitch pattern used in Textured Wisp spreads out more than Stockinette fabric would, so I suggest choosing a yarn based on the recommended gauge of Bulky 2 Strand (12 sts = 4 in/10 cm) rather than the listed pattern gauge (9 sts = 4 in/10 cm) to get the desired fabric. 
- I recommend a super bulky yarn that's spun loosely rather than something super dense. That'll give you the lofty fabric that's shown in the sample. Dense, smooth yarns like Malabrigo Rasta are likely to give you a heavier vest that's more likely to grow out of shape over time.
- The yarn I picked out for a knitter last weekend at Beehive could be a great substitute: Hinterland Watershed is a 50/50 wool/alpaca blend (a singles) that's spun fairly loosely. It's pretty wooly and soft without being too smooth for this project. (Plus, the alpaca is produced right here in Victoria by my friend Hanahlie's alpaca herd and the wool is all Canadian. It's even milled in Alberta!)

- Another super bulky yarn I love is Quince and Co. Puffin. It's 100% wool, and soft while still feeling lofty and a bit rustic. It's a singles and it's sturdy, but the spin is still fairly gentle.
- Another option is actually another Imperial yarn: Native Twist. It's actually spun as a singles, unlike the un-spunBulky 2 Strand, but it puffs up a lot after wet blocking and calls for a similar gauge range. (I used it for the Surging River shawl.)  

MY FAVORITE DETAIL
I love that this vest looks chic, but is super fast to knit! It was probably the fasted garment I ever made - my sample size only took about 400 yards of yarn!

GENERAL TIPS
Like last week's sweater, parts of this vest are worked in the round and parts are worked in rows, so be sure your gauge is the same for both. It's helpful to swatch both in the round and in rows to confirm that you're getting gauge.

Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #TexturedWisp, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Textured Wisp projects!

UPCOMING EVENTS
I'm teaching at Knit City in Vancouver October 1-2, 2016. Both sessions of my Finishing class have already sold out, but there's still space to sign up for my classes on pi shawls and yarn substitution! Click here to sign up.


I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!

PATTERN DETAILS


Finished Sizes

32 (35.5, 41, 44.5, 48, 51.5)” (81.5 90, 104, 113, 122, 131 cm) bust circumference and 25 (25.5, 26.25, 26.25, 27, 27.5)” (63.5 65, 66.5, 66.5, 68.5, 70 cm) long.

Shown in size 35.5” (90 cm). 
Intended to be worn with 1–3” (2.5–7.5 cm) of positive ease.

Yarn 

Bulky weight (#6 Super Bulky). 
Main Color (MC): 296 (330, 378, 410, 442, 475) yd (271 302, 345, 375, 404, 434 m). 
Contrast Color (CC): 69 (74, 88, 95, 106, 111) yd (63 67, 80, 87, 97, 101 m).

Shown here: Imperial Yarn Bulky 2 Strand (100% wool; 200 yd/4 oz cake): colors #02 Pearl gray (MC), 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) cakes; #46 Quail (CC), 1 cake.

Needles 

Size U.S. 11 (8 mm) 16” and 32” (40 and 80 cm) circular (cir). 
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions
Markers (m); stitch holders; 3 size U.S. 11 (8 mm) double-pointed needles (dpn) for shoulder bind-off; tapestry needle.

Gauge

9 sts and 16.5 rows = 4” (10 cm) over Broken Rib patt.

See it on Ravelry

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