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Thursday, July 28, 2016

Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight: Blueberry Paws

When I was designing this week's Rugged Knits pattern highlight, Blueberry Paws, I played around with gauge and fit a lot. Because the mitts are such a quick project, I was able to knit up several iterations of the pattern before I decided exactly how long I wanted them, how snug I wanted the gauge, and how I wanted them to fit. And I've actually been wearing the "not-quite" versions of these mitts since I finished them over a year ago. I'm planning to make myself a couple more pairs in different colors and yarns because they're so useful. (I was thrilled to see the first project pop up on Ravelry today in a cheery yellow!)


CONSTRUCTION
- Worked from the cuff to the finger with a shaped thumb gusset.
- Right and left mitts are different for a great fit, and the cable is placed on the outside of each hand rather than centered.

- A textured rib pattern adds durability, resilience, and a great rugged look.
- A tight gauge means these mitts will be long-lasting.

FIT
- The mitts have a snug ribbed cuff and are designed to be worn with a bit of negative ease. They come in two sizes and are very stretchy.

YARN
Hazel Knits Entice MCN (70% superwash merino wool, 20% cashmere, 10% nylon; 400 yd366 m/115 g)
- A heavy fingering weight plied yarn with a fairly tight twist gives great stitch definition.
- The semisolid color combined with the stitch pattern gives a lovely watercolor look.

- A merino/cashmere/nylon blend combines luxurious softness with durability. Since each pair only takes about 150 yards of yarn, you could make a couple pairs with a beautiful skein of sock yarn.

TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- Use that special skein of yarn you've been saving! Keep in mind that if it's super soft without any nylon content, you might get some pilling since mitts get a lot of abrasion.
- Try a wooly tweed like Jamieson& Smith 2 Ply Jumper Weight for super rugged farm chore mitts.

- For extra warmth and a delicate halo, Berroco Ultra Alpaca Light could be a great choice.

MY FAVORITE DETAIL
I love the cable and placement on the outside of each hand.

GENERAL TIPS
This is a great quick knit. Make a few pairs for gifts (and a few for yourself!)

Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits #BlueberryPaws, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Blueberry Paws projects!

UPCOMING EVENTS
Come to my book launch events and take my intro to color work class using the Boreal Toque pattern!

Tolt Yarn and Wool, Carnation, WA - July 30, 2016
Boreal Toque Workshop 10am-2pm
Book Launch Party & Signing 3-5pm

Beehive Wool Shop, Victoria, BC - August 6-7, 2016
Book Launch Party & Signing, August 6, 11am-3pm
Boreal Toque Workshop, August 7, 1-4pm

PATTERN DETAILS


Finished Size

To fit a hand circumference of 6–7 (7–8) in/15–18 (18–20.5) cm, mitts measure about 5.5 (6.25) in/14 (16) cm in circumference and 6.5 (7.5) in/16.5 (19) cm long. 
Shown in size 5.5 in/14 cm).

Yarn 

117 (153) yd (107 140 m) sock weight (#1 Super Fine).

Shown here: Hazel Knits Entice MCN (70% superwash merino wool, 20% cashmere, 10% nylon; 400 yd366 m/115 g): color Laguna, 1 skein.

Needles 

Size U.S. 3 (3.25 mm) set of 4 or 5 double- pointed (dpn). 
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions
Markers (m); stitch holder or waste yarn; tapestry needle.

Gauge

28 sts and 44 rows = 4” (10 cm) over Broken Rib. 
12-st cable panel = about 11⁄4” (3.2 cm) wide.

Update on Errata: 
A kind knitter pointed out some errors on the left mitt. On page 110, Page the Left Mitt should read:
Rnd 1: Work 12 sts in established patt, [p1, k1] 9 (10) times, pm, m1, k1, m1, pm, [k1, p1] to end—43 (49) sts, with 3 sts between m for gusset.
Rnds 2 & 4: Work 12 sts in est patt, knit to end, slipping markers as you come to them.
Rnd 3: Work 12 sts in est patt, [p1, k1] to m, sm, knit to m, sm, [k1, p1] to end.

See it on Ravelry

Thursday, July 21, 2016

Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight: Sun Flare

This week's Rugged Knits pattern highlight is a fun one for summer! Sun Flare is a triangle kerchief with a subtle, intuitive, and fun textured pattern that's created with just knits and purls.


CONSTRUCTION
- Worked bottom-up, starting with just a few stitches for the tip of the triangle.
- Simple garter stitch borders the sides and top of the triangle

- The fabric lays flat because of the textured stitch pattern.
- Wrong side rows are easy - just knit the first and last few stitches for a garter edge and purl the rest!

FIT
- The triangle has a wingspan of 41 in/104 cm, so it's more of a shawlette than a shawl. I wear it kerchief-style with the point in the front and the fabric tied in the back

YARN
Swans Island Natural Colors Fingering (100% certified organic merino wool; 525 yd 480 m/100 g)
- A light fingering weight plied yarn with a fairly tight twist gives great stitch definition.
- I love how the semi-solid color gives the stitch pattern the subtle look of an antique tapestry. (You could use a more solid color for clearer texture if you prefer.)

- Soft Merino makes it wonderful to work with and perfect for wearing right next to the skin.

TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- I used almost the entire skein for the sample, and Natural Colors Fingering comes with more yardage than is common in sock yarns - 525 yd/480 m). For more standard 400 yd sock yarn skeins, you'll need two skeins.
- If you want stitch definition, choose a yarn without a halo (so avoid alpaca and mohair).

- A solid-colored yarn with silk content like Quince and Co. Tern could make the texture bolder.
- For an affordable warm-weather option, consider Knit Picks Comfy Fingering Yarn.

MY FAVORITE DETAIL
The texture is so fun to work and adds such a great subtle look.

GENERAL TIPS
Don't be daunted by all the charts! They're there to help you maintain the edge pattern, but the center of the pattern is intuitive and doesn't change throughout.

Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits #Sunflare, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Sun Flare projects!

UPCOMING EVENTS
Come to my book launch events and take my intro to color work class using the Boreal Toque pattern!

Tolt Yarn and Wool, Carnation, WA - July 30, 2016
Boreal Toque Workshop 10am-2pm
Book Launch Party & Signing 3-5pm

Beehive Wool Shop, Victoria, BC - August 6-7, 2016
Book Launch Party & Signing, August 6, 11am-3pm
Boreal Toque Workshop, August 7, 1-4pm

PATTERN DETAILS


Finished Size
About 41 in/104 cm wide and 19.75 in/50 cm long.

Yarn 

541 yd (495 m) fingering weight (#1 Super Fine).

Shown here: Swans Island Natural Colors Fingering (100% certified organic merino wool; 525 yd 480 m/100 g): color #YF124 Bittersweet, 1 skein (sample shown uses almost an entire skein; to ensure sufficient amount of yarn for swatching, you may consider purchasing a second skein).

Needles 

Size U.S. 2 (2.75 mm): 40” (100 cm) circular (cir). 
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions
Size C-2 (2.75 mm) crochet hook; markers (m); tapestry needle; blocking wires.

Gauge
28 sts and 48 rows = 4 in/10 cm over Textured Stitch pattern.

See it on Ravelry

Thursday, July 14, 2016

Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight: Lilac Sky

Now that Rugged Knits is out in the world, I've been highlighting each one of the patterns so you can get a closer look at what makes them special. I've covered a couple sweaters and my Boreal Toque so far, and this week, I'm going to share Lilac Sky, a simple but stunning loop scarf.



CONSTRUCTION
- Worked in the round - no seams and very little finishing required!
- The wide borders on top and bottom are a variation of the center stitch pattern.

FIT
- The loop has a circumference of 44.5 in/113 cm and it's 16 in/40.5 cm deep, so it's long enough to double it up in chilly weather, but it looks beautiful and elegant just tossed on.

YARN
Malabrigo Lace is such a unique yarn. (100% merino wool, 470 yd 430 m/50 g)
- It's a very lightweight singles, but it's spun tightly so there's no danger of it coming apart while you work.
- It creates a fabric that has an extremely cohesive, velvety feel that's so light it floats and drapes at the same time.
- Because the yarn is so soft and delicate (and partly due to the singles construction), the finished fabric can tend to fuzz and pill, but scarves don't receive much abrasion, so I don't find this to be a problem. And I just love the fabric so much that I can't bring myself to be bothered much by that.

TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- If you choose a plied yarn, keep in mind that it will probably create a fabric that's less cohesive, though it might also be less likely to pill.
- To maintain the clarity of the textured stitch pattern, avoid yarns with fibres like alpaca or mohair that have a lot of texture or halo. If you like that softer, more muted look, though, an alpaca blend lace weight could have a gorgeous drape.
- To transform this into a summer essential, work it up in Anzula Breeze. (65% Silk, 35% Linen; 750 yd/686 m per 114g skein)
- For a made-in-the-USA option, try Quince and Co. Piper (50% Texas super kid mohair, 50% Texas superfine merino; 305 yd/279 m per 50g skein) or Brooklyn Tweed Plains (100% Rambouillet; 440 yd/402 m per 50g skein)


MY FAVORITE DETAIL
The surprisingly soft and light textured fabric.

GENERAL TIPS
The row gauge in the textured drop stitch pattern is very dense, so this isn't a quick project, but it's very easy to memorize making it great for knit night or traveling. Also, did you notice the affordable price of Malabrigo Lace? You can make this scarf for under $30!

Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits #Lilacsky, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Lilac Sky projects!

UPCOMING EVENTS
Come to my book launch events and take my intro to color work class using the Boreal Toque pattern!

Tolt Yarn and Wool, Carnation, WA - July 30, 2016
Boreal Toque Workshop 10am-2pm
Book Launch Party & Signing 3-5pm

Beehive Wool Shop, Victoria, BC - August 6-7, 2016
Book Launch Party & Signing, August 6, 11am-3pm
Boreal Toque Workshop, August 7, 1-4pm

PATTERN DETAILS


Finished Size
About 44.5 in (113 cm) in circumference and 16 in (40.5 cm) long

Yarn
1344 yd (1229 m) laceweight (#0 Lace).

Shown here: Malabrigo Lace (100% merino wool, 470 yd 430 m/50 g): color #52 Paris Night, 3 skeins.

Needles
Size U.S. 3 (3.25 mm): 40” (100 cm) circular (cir).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions
Markers (m); tapestry needle.

Gauge
24.5 sts and 79 rnds = 4 in (10 cm) over Dropped St Stockinette pattern

See it on Ravelry

Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight: Boreal Toque

I've been writing about the patterns in my new book Rugged Knits - previously I covered two sweaters, Hazy Cloud and Silhouette Baselayer. Today I'm going to get into one of the accessory patterns, Boreal Toque. Like the Silhouette Baselayer I envisioned Boreal Toque working equally well for men and women.


CONSTRUCTION
- Bottom-up
- Simple wide ribbed brim
- Easy to follow color pattern without any long floats - no float catching is necessary!

FIT
- Intended to be worn with a snug, beanie-style fit so it's comfortable under a helmet.
- For a slouchier fit, work more Stockinette after completing the color pattern and before beginning crown shaping.

YARN
I used one of my favorite yarns, Brooklyn Tweed Loft (100% Targhee-Columbia wool; 275 yd 251 m/50 g).
- Woolen spun construction makes a light, warm hat. Color work adds warmth and wind-resistance with very little added bulk.
- The tweedy color palette is gorgeous and extensive. There are so many girly, masculine, and neutral color combinations to choose from!
- Brooklyn Tweed Yarns are made in the USA. I love supporting North American yarn production!

Tips for Substituting
- Lots of yarns can work for this one. Fibres like alpaca, silk, and cotton may stretch out of shape over time, so wool may be best. But, that's not nearly as big of a concern as it would be with a garment.
- For a bright, saturated project, I'd love to see this worked up in your favorite hand dyed sock yarn like Hazel Knits Artisan Sock.
- For a natural, un-dyed look, try Bare Naked Wool Better Breakfast Fingering.
- If you like clean, smooth color work, I recommend Quince and Co. Finch.

MY FAVORITE DETAIL
The color pattern that's dramatic, but not difficult to work.

GENERAL TIPS
Color dominance is important for this project. Because the contrast color creates the pattern, I held it dominant for this hat. Like I mentioned in the post about Hazy Cloud, I love this article by Dianna Walla about color dominance in knitting.

Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits #Borealtoque, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Boreal Toque projects!

UPCOMING EVENTS

Come to my book launch events and take my intro to color work class using the Boreal Toque pattern!

Tolt Yarn and Wool, Carnation, WA - July 30, 2016

Boreal Toque Workshop 10am-2pm
Book Launch Party & Signing 3-5pm

Beehive Wool Shop, Victoria, BC - August 6-7, 2016

Book Launch Party & Signing, August 6, 11am-3pm
Boreal Toque Workshop, August 7, 1-4pm


PATTERN DETAILS


Finished Size 
About 201⁄4 (21, 22)” (51.5 53.5, 56 cm) head circumference and 71⁄2 (73⁄4, 81⁄4)” (19 19.5, 21 cm) long.

Example A shown on woman in size 21” (53.5 cm). 

Example B shown on man in size 22” (56 cm).

Yarn 
Sock weight (#1 Super Fine). Main Color (MC): 119 (128, 137) m. Contrast Color (CC): 36 (46, 55) m.

Shown here: Brooklyn Tweed Loft (100% Targhee-Columbia wool; 275 yd 251 m/50 g): colors for Example A: Old World (MC), 1 skein; Snowbound (CC), 1 skein; colors for Example B: Pumpernickel (MC), 1 skein; Hayloft (CC), 1 skein.


Needles 
Size U.S. 3 (3.25 mm): 16” (40 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn). 
Size U.S. 5 (3.75) mm 16” (40 cm) circular (cir). 
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauges.

Notions 
Markers (m); tapestry needle.

Gauge 
25 sts and 36 sts = 4” (10 cm) over St st using smaller needle. 
25 sts and 31 sts = 4” (10 cm) over color chart using larger needle.




       Get Rugged Knits from Interweave

Friday, July 1, 2016

Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight: Silhouette Baselayer


This is the second post in a series highlighting the patterns in my book Rugged Knits. (You can read about the cover sweater, Hazy Cloud, here.) Today I'm going to delve deep into the Silhouette Baselayer patterns. I designed versions for men and women because I think this can really work well for everyone! 



Photo Credit: Interweave/F+W 2016


CONSTRUCTION
- Seamless, worked in the round to the neckline
- Bottom-up
- Underarms are joined with Kitchener Stitch.
- Yoke shaping is carefully calculated so that armhole and body shaping are accomplished at different rates. This creates a good fit around the shoulders. 
- Gentle waist shaping gives a feminine silhouette in the women's version, while the men's version includes reverse A-line shaping, a deeper yoke, and longer sleeves to better suit a man's proportions.

FIT
- Intended to be worn with a fairly snug fit (1-3 inches/2.5-7.5 cm of positive ease)
- For a snug fit similar to your favorite thermal shirt, choose a size close to your chest circumference. This could also be worn as a more relaxed pullover with a bit more ease. I don't recommend making it with more than 4 inches/10 cm of positive ease, though, because the fabric is very lightweight and isn't designed to be worn very oversized. The shoulders may look sloppy if worn with more positive ease than that.

YARN
I chose Anzula Cloud (80% superwash merino wool, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon; 575 yd 526 m/114 g) because:
- It's next-to-skin soft
- It's spun fairly loosely, which makes it a light, lofty yarn
- The colors are dreamy! There are so many options for both men and women.

That loose spin and super soft fibres could contribute to a seamless sweater stretching if it was worked in plain Stockinette, but the textured stitch pattern helps give structure to the fabric, so it'll last a long time. 

Tips for Substituting
- Cloud is a light fingering weight yarn. When substituting, be sure to choose one that's also fairly light. If you choose a heavier fingering weight yarn, you're likely to have a denser sweater with less drape. This could be a good adaptation, though, if what you're looking for is a warmer sweater.
- As I recommended for the last sweater, I'll say again: Work at least one large swatch in the round (and be sure to block your swatch!) in order to help you decide on which yarn you'd like to use. This is of course also necessary for checking your gauge. 


MY FAVORITE DETAIL
The simple but unusual stitch pattern gives the impression of the classic thermal shirt waffle texture in a hand knitted garment.

GENERAL TIPS
The textured stitch pattern isn't difficult to work, but if you're not familiar with it, I recommend using a light color so you can see what's going on with the pattern a little more clearly.

Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits #SilhouetteBaselayer, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Silhouette Baselayer projects!

PATTERN DETAILS

WOMEN'S VERSION
Finished Size 
32 (35.5, 39, 44.25, 47.75, 51.25)” (81.5 (90, 99, 112.5, 121.5, 130) cm bust circumference, and 25 (25.5, 26, 27.5, 28.75, 29)” (63.5 65, 66, 70, 73, 73.5 cm) length. 
Intended to be worn with 1–3”(2.5–7.5 cm) of positive ease

Shown in size 35.5” (90 cm)

MEN'S VERSION
Finished Size
36 (39.5, 44.75, 48.25, 51.75, 55.25)” (91.5 100.5, 113.5, 122.5, 131.5, 140.5 cm) chest circumference and 26.25 (26.75, 27.25, 28.5, 29.5, 30.25)” (66.5 68, 69, 72.5, 75, 77 cm) length

Intended to be worn with 1–3” (2.5–7.5 cm) of positive ease 
Shown in size 44.75” (113.5 cm)

Yarn 
Sportweight (#2 Fine) yarn in 2 colors: 
Main Color (MC): 734 (823, 924, 1013, 1,114, 1203) yd (671 752, 845, 926, 1018, 1100 m). 
Contrast Color (CC): 651 (730, 820, 898, 988, 1087) yd (595 667, 750, 821, 903, 994 m).

1168 (1303, 1429, 1618, 1744, 1879) yd (1068 1191, 1307, 1479, 1595, 1718 m) fingering weight (#1 Super Fine) yarn. 

Shown here: Anzula Cloud (80% superwash merino wool, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon; 575 yd 526 m/114 g): color Avocado, 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) skeins.

Needles 
Size U.S. 3 (3.25 mm) 16” and 32” (40 and 80 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double- pointed (dpn). 
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions 
Stitch markers (m); stitch holders or waste yarn; tapestry needle

Gauge 
271⁄2 sts and 38 rows = 4” (10 cm) over Tiny Bow Knot pattern

See it on Ravelry




       Get Rugged Knits from Interweave
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