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Friday, October 7, 2016

Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight: Gleaming Horizon

Today's Rugged Knits pattern highlight was one of the first designs I had in mind for this collection, even before I really had the plan for the book fleshed out. I'd been wanting to do gray and gold colorwork forever, and it took a lot of charting and swatching before I got this one right. Sean, my husband, designed the color motifs, and the resulting sweater is one I really love. The concept for this was to have a sweater that would be light and relaxed. I wanted something that would have a comfortable oversized fit, but not look like it was just too big. Slender sleeves and carefully-shaped shoulders create a fit that's flattering and casual.




CONSTRUCTION
- This is a drop shoulder pullover knit bottom-up in the round to the underarms. Then the front and back are worked separately back and forth in rows. The sleeves are worked all in the round, and all of the colorwork takes place in sections that are worked in the round, so you'll never have to work color patterns on the wrong side.

- There are a few rounds in which 3 colors are worked at once, so this is most suitable for knitters with a bit of stranded colorwork experience.
- Shoulders are shaped with short rows and joined with 3-needle bind-off
- Sleeves are worked separately from the body and then sewn into the armholes with mattress stitch.
- Necessary finishing is minimized - just join the shoulders, sew in the sleeves, weave in the ends, and block. 

FIT
The body fit is oversized. Gentle waist shaping, short row shoulder shaping, and a wide, scooped neckline help maintain a feminine, flattering silhouette with a related fit.
- When choosing a size, be sure to follow the ease recommendation in the pattern. The finished garment should be approximately 8-10 in/20.5-25.5 cm larger than your actual bust circumference. If you choose a size with less ease, it's likely that the shoulders and sleeves will be too small for you.

YARN
I chose to use a yarn I totally love for this pullover - Brooklyn Tweed Loft. It's light and tweedy, and has wonderful colors. I adore how the colorwork is just a tiny bit muted thanks to the woolen spun construction of the yarn. It blooms beautifully when washed, and creates this gorgeous, light-as-air fabric that I can't get enough of. 


TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- Because there aren't any side seams and the sweater is already oversized and a bit longer than standard, I don't recommend using any yarn that's slippery and likely to stretch out vertically. Wool that hasn't been treated to be machine washable is best. I'd avoid superwash wool, silk, alpaca, and plant fibres like cotton.
- If you want the ultralight feel that the sample shows, pick a woolen spun (rather than worsted spun) yarn. 
- Jamieson & Smith 2 Ply Jumper Weight could be a good woolen spun alternative. It's a bit rougher and less buttery than the Loft, but it also seems a little stronger and more rustic to me. It also comes in a huge range of colors and is generally a fantastic yarn for color work. Be sure to swatch to check that the fabric is as cohesive as you want before beginning. 
- Harrisville Designs Shetland is a similar option.


MY FAVORITE DETAIL
I love how the sleeve cuff details reflect the main body colorwork.

GENERAL TIPS
There are a few rounds that require working with three colors at once, so be prepared to focus a little more intensely for a bit in the middle of the colorwork sections.


Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits#GleamingHorizon, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Lily Toes projects!

UPCOMING EVENTS

I'll be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!

PATTERN DETAILS


Finished Measurements

38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58)” (91.5 106.5, 117, 127, 137, 147.5 cm) bust circumference and 263⁄4 (27, 28, 291⁄4, 301⁄2, 311⁄2)” (68 68.5, 71, 74.5, 77.5, 80 cm) long.

Intended to be worn with 8–10” (20.5–25.5 cm) of positive ease. 
Shown in size 42” (106.5 cm).


Yarn 

Fingering weight (#1 Super Fine). 
Main Color (MC): 1210 (1336, 1479, 1622, 1771, 1914) yd (1106 1222, 1352, 1483, 1619, 1750 m). 
Contrast Color 1 (CC1): 236 (259, 285, 310, 334, 359) yd (216 237, 260, 283, 305, 328 m). 
Contrast Color 2 (CC2): 81 (89, 97, 106, 114, 122) yd (74 81, 89, 97, 104, 112 m). 
Contrast Color 3 (CC3): 17 (19, 21, 23, 25, 27) yd (16 17, 19, 21, 23, 25 m).

Shown here: Brooklyn Tweed Loft (100% Targhee-Columbia wool; 275 yd 251 m/50 g skein): colors Soot (MC), 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) skeins; Snowbound (CC1), 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); Hayloft (CC2), 1 skein; Fossil (CC3), 1 skein.

Needles 

Size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm) 16” and 32” (40 and 
80 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double- pointed (dpn). 
Size U.S. 6 (4 mm) 16” and 32” (40 and 80 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn). 
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauges.

Notions

Markers (m); tapestry needle.

Gauge

24 sts and 41 rows = 4” (10 cm) over St st using smaller needles. 
24 sts and 30 rnds = 4” (10 cm) over chart patt using larger needles.


See it on Ravelry

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