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Friday, July 1, 2016

Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight: Silhouette Baselayer


This is the second post in a series highlighting the patterns in my book Rugged Knits. (You can read about the cover sweater, Hazy Cloud, here.) Today I'm going to delve deep into the Silhouette Baselayer patterns. I designed versions for men and women because I think this can really work well for everyone! 



Photo Credit: Interweave/F+W 2016


CONSTRUCTION
- Seamless, worked in the round to the neckline
- Bottom-up
- Underarms are joined with Kitchener Stitch.
- Yoke shaping is carefully calculated so that armhole and body shaping are accomplished at different rates. This creates a good fit around the shoulders. 
- Gentle waist shaping gives a feminine silhouette in the women's version, while the men's version includes reverse A-line shaping, a deeper yoke, and longer sleeves to better suit a man's proportions.

FIT
- Intended to be worn with a fairly snug fit (1-3 inches/2.5-7.5 cm of positive ease)
- For a snug fit similar to your favorite thermal shirt, choose a size close to your chest circumference. This could also be worn as a more relaxed pullover with a bit more ease. I don't recommend making it with more than 4 inches/10 cm of positive ease, though, because the fabric is very lightweight and isn't designed to be worn very oversized. The shoulders may look sloppy if worn with more positive ease than that.

YARN
I chose Anzula Cloud (80% superwash merino wool, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon; 575 yd 526 m/114 g) because:
- It's next-to-skin soft
- It's spun fairly loosely, which makes it a light, lofty yarn
- The colors are dreamy! There are so many options for both men and women.

That loose spin and super soft fibres could contribute to a seamless sweater stretching if it was worked in plain Stockinette, but the textured stitch pattern helps give structure to the fabric, so it'll last a long time. 

Tips for Substituting
- Cloud is a light fingering weight yarn. When substituting, be sure to choose one that's also fairly light. If you choose a heavier fingering weight yarn, you're likely to have a denser sweater with less drape. This could be a good adaptation, though, if what you're looking for is a warmer sweater.
- As I recommended for the last sweater, I'll say again: Work at least one large swatch in the round (and be sure to block your swatch!) in order to help you decide on which yarn you'd like to use. This is of course also necessary for checking your gauge. 


MY FAVORITE DETAIL
The simple but unusual stitch pattern gives the impression of the classic thermal shirt waffle texture in a hand knitted garment.

GENERAL TIPS
The textured stitch pattern isn't difficult to work, but if you're not familiar with it, I recommend using a light color so you can see what's going on with the pattern a little more clearly.

Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits #SilhouetteBaselayer, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Silhouette Baselayer projects!

PATTERN DETAILS

WOMEN'S VERSION
Finished Size 
32 (35.5, 39, 44.25, 47.75, 51.25)” (81.5 (90, 99, 112.5, 121.5, 130) cm bust circumference, and 25 (25.5, 26, 27.5, 28.75, 29)” (63.5 65, 66, 70, 73, 73.5 cm) length. 
Intended to be worn with 1–3”(2.5–7.5 cm) of positive ease

Shown in size 35.5” (90 cm)

MEN'S VERSION
Finished Size
36 (39.5, 44.75, 48.25, 51.75, 55.25)” (91.5 100.5, 113.5, 122.5, 131.5, 140.5 cm) chest circumference and 26.25 (26.75, 27.25, 28.5, 29.5, 30.25)” (66.5 68, 69, 72.5, 75, 77 cm) length

Intended to be worn with 1–3” (2.5–7.5 cm) of positive ease 
Shown in size 44.75” (113.5 cm)

Yarn 
Sportweight (#2 Fine) yarn in 2 colors: 
Main Color (MC): 734 (823, 924, 1013, 1,114, 1203) yd (671 752, 845, 926, 1018, 1100 m). 
Contrast Color (CC): 651 (730, 820, 898, 988, 1087) yd (595 667, 750, 821, 903, 994 m).

1168 (1303, 1429, 1618, 1744, 1879) yd (1068 1191, 1307, 1479, 1595, 1718 m) fingering weight (#1 Super Fine) yarn. 

Shown here: Anzula Cloud (80% superwash merino wool, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon; 575 yd 526 m/114 g): color Avocado, 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) skeins.

Needles 
Size U.S. 3 (3.25 mm) 16” and 32” (40 and 80 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double- pointed (dpn). 
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions 
Stitch markers (m); stitch holders or waste yarn; tapestry needle

Gauge 
271⁄2 sts and 38 rows = 4” (10 cm) over Tiny Bow Knot pattern

See it on Ravelry




       Get Rugged Knits from Interweave

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