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I'm back to highlighting Rugged Knits patterns and this week's project just makes me really happy. I wear boots all fall and winter and I tend to go for taller socks, so I knew I needed to include a pair of knee socks in the book.
CONSTRUCTION
- They're knit toe-up, which I like because it makes it easy to use up all your yarn - you can keep going on the first sock until you've just got half of your yarn left.
- I start them off with Jenny's Magic Cast-on, which is really fun and a great tool to have in your knitting knowledge toolbox.
- Gusset increases are worked in pattern for a clean look.
- Delicate cables adorn the outside of each sock leg, and form the counterpoint of the calf shaping.
- All-over broken rip pattern gives way to standard 1x1 ribbing at the top of the socks to make a stretchy cuff.
FIT
- I recommend knitting your socks with negative ease (meaning your actual foot is slightly larger than the size you pick to knit). A snug foot is more comfortable.
- These socks include helpful shaping in the foot and the calf for a good fit. If you need a different amount of shaping for your calves it's easy to work more or fewer increases along the leg.
YARN
I'm completely in love with this color, and the yarn is one I've been using for socks for years - Hazel Knits Artisan Sock in Midas. It's one of the happiest yellows ever. Artisan Sock is a slightly heavyweight sock yarn. It's a superwash Merino/Nylon blend that's really soft and comes in incredible colors.
TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- Be sure to pick a sock yarn that's a bit on the heavy side. Superwash can be helpful for socks too. I really recommend using a worsted spun yarn (as opposed to a woolen spun one like Brooklyn Tweed Loft) because socks really need durability more than anything. A bunch of plies tightly twisted, and of course, majority wool content will also add toughness, stretchiness, and stitch definition to your socks.
- I'm not going to make any specific sub recommendations because I think we all have our favorite sock yarns. Go raid your stash!
MY FAVORITE DETAIL
The knee-high length and sweet cable make me really love these simple socks.
GENERAL TIPS
Be sure you're knitting at a firm gauge whatever yarn you use in order to keep your socks comfortable and durable.
Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #LilyToes, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Lily Toes projects!
UPCOMING EVENTS
I'll be at Knit City in Vancouver this weekend! I'd love to see you on Sunday, Oct. 2 at the Beehive booth for a Rugged Knits book signing.
I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements
7 (8, 8.75, 9.75)” (18 20.5, 22, 25 cm) foot circumference and 15.5” (39.5 cm) long.
Shown in size 8” (20.5 cm).
Yarn
629 (679, 732, 782) yd (575 621, 669, 715 m) fingering weight (#1 Super Fine).
Shown here: Hazel Knits Artisan Sock (90% superwash merino wool, 10% nylon; 400 yd 366 m/120 g): color Midas, 2 (2, 2, 3) skeins
Needles
Size U.S. 2 (2.75 mm) set of 4 or 5 double- pointed (dpn), long circular (cir), two short circular needles, or other needles preferred for small-circumference circular knitting.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions
Markers (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.
Gauge
34 sts and 51 rnds = 4” (10 cm) over St st.
33 sts and 52 rnds = 4” (10 cm) over Broken Rib.
See it on Ravelry
I'm taking a break from Rugged Knits patterns this week to talk about a new cardigan I've got out! View Royal is an indie pattern that I originally designed for the Neighborhood Fiber Outerloop Sweater Club, but I'm happy to have gotten the rights back to it just in time for sweater weather. I've gotten the hang of talking about the different elements of a pattern through my Rugged Knits pattern highlights, though, so I'm going to keep that format for this one.
CONSTRUCTION
- It's worked bottom-up with just enough seams to keep everything stable. The body is worked in one piece and split at the underarms to work back and fronts separately. The sleeves are worked in the round to the sleeve cap, then back and forth to get that lovely set-in sleeve shape.
- The shoulders are joined using 3-needle bind-off and the sleeve caps are sewn in using mattress stitch. This allows a very neat, trim fit and adds stability where it's needed most.
- Cast-on and bind-off edges are tubular for that perfect ribbed edge.
- Colorwork cuffs add feminine drama to the whole sweater.
- The neckline is trimmed with I-cord, making a clean finish.
FIT
- The intended fit is pretty standard: 2-4 in/5-10 cm of positive ease. The sweater in the pictures is the 34 in/86.5 cm and fits me with 3 in/7.5 cm of ease.
- Set-in sleeve caps, waist shaping and short row shoulder shaping create a flattering, feminine fit.
YARN
The yarn I used in this pattern is Neighborhood Fiber Skyline Aran, which was a special base created just for Neighborhood Fiber's sweater club this year. If you weren't a part of the club, you'll probably need to substitute. Skyline Aran is actually classified as a bulky with a recommended gauge of 3-4 sts = 1 in/2.5 cm. It's 100% Targhee wool and is a plied, round, bouncy yarn.
TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- Choose something with resilience/bounce since the fabric is fairly heavy and the pattern doesn't include side seams. I recommend using wool or a wool blend.
- Neighborhood Fiber Co. Studio Chunky could be a good alternative. It's a superwash merino, so the fiber isn't exactly the same, but the construction is really similar and it comes in gorgeous colors.
- For a more rustic look, Imperial Yarn Columbia would be a great option. It's tweedy, but soft and buttery. (My Valley Trail Pullover is a colorwork sweater worked at the same gauge in this yarn.)
- Hinterland Range is a yarn I'm really in love with right now. It's a 50/50 wool/alpaca blend, so it has a lovely halo, and it's woolen spun, so it's light and blooms like nothing I've ever seen. It comes in gorgeous natural colors and the fibre is grown and spun here in Canada. (The alpaca fibre is actually from my friend's alpaca farm here in Victoria!)
- Quince & Co. Osprey is another option. It's a bit more loosely spun and just has 2 plies, but it's a lovely, soft yarn in a beautiful color palette.
MY FAVORITE DETAIL
I love the placement of the colorwork cuff detail. It's particularly fun that the gauge is pretty chunky so the colorwork is at a bigger scale than you often see.
GENERAL TIPS
Be sure to swatch in both colorwork and Stockinette. A lot of knitters need to use a larger needle in colorwork to maintain gauge.
Be sure to use the hashtags #ViewRoyalCardigan and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Wheat Creek projects!
UPCOMING EVENTS
I'm teaching at Knit City in Vancouver October 1-2, 2016. There are still spots to sign up for my classes on pi shawls and yarn substitution! Click here to sign up.
I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements
Bust Circumference: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58) in/86.5 (96.5, 106.5, 117, 127, 137, 147.5) cm
Intended to be worn with +2–4 in/5–10 cm of ease at bust for standard fit; shown in size 34 in/86.5 cm with +3 in/7.5 cm of ease on model
Yarn
Aran weight yarn in two colors:
Main Color: 1010 (1129, 1248, 1367, 1486, 1605, 1723) yd/924 (1032, 1141, 1250, 1359, 1468, 1576) m
Contrast Color: 75 (75, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95) yd/69 (69, 69, 73, 78, 82, 87) m
Shown in Neighborhood Fiber Company Skyline Aran (100% Targhee Wool; 210 yd/192 m per 4oz/114 g skein) in Esquimalt (MC): 5 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9) skeins and Roland Park (CC): 1 skein
Needles
Needle sizes are recommendations only; always use needle size necessary to achieve given gauge.
32 in/80 cm circular needle:
Needle A: US #7/4.5 mm, Needle B: US #8/5 mm
Set double-pointed needles (dpns), long circular for magic loop method, or two circular needles (preferred small- circumference circular knitting method):
Needle C: US #7/4.5 mm, Needle D: US #8/5 mm, Needle E: US #9/5.5 mm (optional for color work)
spare 32 in/80 cm or longer circular needle in the same size or slightly smaller than Needle A (for tubular BO): 2 US #7/4.5 mm dpns for I-Cord Neckline Edging
Notions
waste yarn
7 stitch markers
tapestry needle
seven .75 in/2 cm buttons needle and thread
Gauge
Gauge measurement should be taken after blocking.
16 sts/24 rnds = 4 in/10 cm in St st and stranded Stitch Pattern with Needle B or D (suggested size US #8/5 mm)
See it on Ravelry
$8 pdf download
Because the garment samples for Rugged Knits had to fit Interweave's models, they're all about one size too big for me. I'm already working on making my own Hazy Cloud, but this week's pattern highlight, Wheat Creek, is one that can be worn with a bit of a relaxed fit, so I'm definitely adding it to my wardrobe once the collection has done the trunk show rounds.
CONSTRUCTION
- The rugged vibe is strong with this one. It's worked in pieces and seamed to add extra stability and durability. (If you're really averse to seaming, it's totally possible to work fronts and back all together, but I think the seams are worth it.)
- It starts off with a provisional cast-on and a lovely decorative turned hem. The inside of the hem is Stockinette stitch to avoid bulk, but the outside is this great crossover stitch pattern that's fun and a bit magical to work.
- Pockets are patch-pocket style, so they're knit separately and then sewn on. They're big enough to keep your hands warm and hold important stuff, and the diagonal shape makes them easy to slip your hands into.
- The shoulders are joined using 3-needle bind-off on the outside, creating a decorative ridge. This detail was inspired by traditional Cowichan knitting.
- Collar, button band and buttonhole band are picked up and worked last.
- The edgings are all worked in garter stitch, making for clean, cozy finishing.
- The collar is shaped using short rows and can be worn up as shown in the photos or folded over as a slim shawl collar.
FIT
- The intended fit is fairly slim, so the pattern recommends wearing it with 0-2 in/0-5 cm of positive ease. The model is wearing it with about 0 ease. But I love it on me with about 4 in/10 cm of ease.
- Waist shaping and short row shaping at the shoulders make a flattering, slim fit.
YARN
This one is worked up in a fantastic semi-woolen spun yarn that's grown and spun in Wyoming, Sincere Sheep Equity Sport. It's extremely bouncy and has a rustic quality, while still being very soft since the fibre is 100% Rambouillet.
TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- To get a similar vibe, I recommend a yarn that's bouncy and nice and woolly. Brooklyn Tweed Loft could be a good substitute, though it has a drier, lighter feel to it.
- For a smoother look, Quince and Co. Chickadee could be a good choice.
MY FAVORITE DETAIL
I love that this one is fairly simple in appearance, but that delicate hem is just the sweetest little bit of something special.
GENERAL TIPS
Try the Crossover Stitch pattern on your swatch so you know what you're doing when you start your project.
Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #WheatCreek, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Wheat Creek projects!
UPCOMING EVENTS
I'm teaching at Knit City in Vancouver October 1-2, 2016. Looks like there's one spot left in my Finishing class, and there are still spots to sign up for my classes on pi shawls and yarn substitution! Click here to sign up.
I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements
31.75 (35, 38, 41.5, 46, 48.5)” (80.5 89, 96.5, 105.5, 117, 123 cm) bust circumference, with 1⁄2 (1⁄2, 1⁄2,3⁄4,3⁄4, 1)” (1.3 1.3, 1.3, 2, 2, 2.5 cm) overlap and 23 (23.5, 24, 24.25, 24.25, 24.25)” (58.5 59.5, 61, 61.5, 61.5, 62 cm) long.
Shown in size 35” (89 cm).
Intended to be worn with 0–2” (0–5 cm) of positive ease.
Yarn
900 (996, 1096, 1193, 1317, 1389) yd (823 911, 1002, 1091, 1204, 1270 m) Sportweight (#2 Fine).
Shown here: Sincere Sheep Equity Sport (100% wool; 200 yd 183 m/2 oz 56 g): color Dark Gray, 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) skeins.
Needles
Size U.S. 2 (2.75 mm): 16” and 60” (40 and 150 cm) long circular (cir) needle.
Size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm) needles.
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions
Size U.S. C-2 (2.75 mm) crochet
hook; markers (m); stitch holders; waste yarn; tapestry needle; five 5/8” (15 mm) buttons.
Gauge
241⁄2 sts and 40 rows = 4” (10 cm) over St st using larger needle.
See it on Ravelry
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This week's Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight is one of my favorites in the collection - Woolen Explorer. This is a hard-wearing, super functional cardigan (with giant pockets!) inspired by the Icelandic Lopapeysa tradition. I even knit my sample out of Icelandic wool - Istex Lettlopi. It's a really special yarn from one of the world's heritage sheep breeds. The Icelandic sheep grazing today are almost unchanged from those that have been there for 1100 years. (This article from Modern Farmer has some lovely descriptions of Icelandic wool.) This sweater was one of the most troublesome to design (I re-worked the colorwork, collar, button band, and all sorts of elements many times before I was satisfied), but I'm in love with the result. Here in the PNW, this is almost more coat that sweater, and I'm really looking forward to knitting up one for myself.
CONSTRUCTION
- Worked seamlessly, bottom-up, this sweater includes steek stitches and the front is cut open to create the cardigan.
- Pocket linings are worked first and then incorporated into the body as the body is worked. The linings are then sewn down on the inside of the jacket during finishing. Ribbed pocket edgings are picked up and added after sewing the linings.
- Body and sleeves are worked separately, then joined to work the yoke.
- The collar is worked to double its length, then, after reinforcing and cutting the steek, it's folded down and whipstitched to the inside.
- Button band and buttonhole band are picked up and worked last.
FIT
- This sweater is really versatile in fit. The sample is shown worn with a very oversized fit, like a big coat, and I had in fact expected the sample to be photographed on the male model. I was surprised to see it photographed on one of the women, but it looks so perfect on her! I wouldn't have thought to try it that way, and that kind of unexpected styling is why I love collaborating.
- I have two different recommended ease categories for this one: For the oversized fit shown on the model, knit one that's 9−13 in/23−33 cm larger than the wearer's chest circumference. For a more standard relaxed fit, make yours 2−4 in/5−10 cm larger than the wearer's chest circumference. And as I say that, I actually think I'm going to go somewhere in between when I knit one for myself and make the 37.75 in/96 cm size, which will be about 6.75 in of ease on me.
- There are instructions for two different sleeve length options, one designed for standard women's sleeve lengths and one for men's/tall (or just long-armed) sleeve lengths. Check out the schematic to see which one is right for you.
- The fit is intended to be somewhat boxy, so waist shaping isn't included in the instructions. But the body is worked all in Stockinette stitch, so if you know you prefer some shaping, it wouldn't be difficult to add a few decreases and increases.
YARN
I mentioned above that Istex Lettlopi is a special yarn. It's got some really interesting characteristics that make it great for working up a rugged, long-lasting coat. It's surprisingly light but very warm. If you're used to very soft yarns, you'll probably find it to be rough because the softer undercoat fibers are spun together with coarser fibers, but it softens up with wearing and washing, and it's intended as outerwear, so you can always add a barrier layer if it seems to prickly to wear right next to your skin. If you haven't ever tried it, it's really affordable - I really recommend getting your hands on a skein and swatching with it to see what you think.
TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- Since Lettlopi is such a unique yarn, any substitution will result in a really different fabric, but as long as you know what you're looking for, there are lots of possibilities.
- It's worsted weight and worked at 18 sts = 4 in/10 cm. There are a lot of yarns that would work really well at that gauge.
- I recommend picking something that's a bit sticky to help keep everything in place when you cut your steek. Superwash yarn is probably not ideal because it's slippery and tends to grow vertically with wear. (Having said that, though, a whole lot of knitters have made my Knitter's Dude with The Plucky Knitter Scholar, a superwash MCN, and have been happy with their finished sweaters. The Knitter's Dude is a tighter gauge sweater with more colorwork in the body, so make sure you know what you're getting into if you decide to go this route.)
- If you're a fan of Brooklyn Tweed Shelter, that could be a great option. It's light and woolly and works great for steeking.
- For something incredibly cozy, I'd love to see this in Malabrigo Merino Worsted. It pills like crazy, but the colors are gorgeous and it's the cuddliest yarn I've ever worked with.
- Another yarn I love is Cestari Traditional 2-Ply. I think it would give you an equally long-lasting, rustic sweater, but it's quite a bit softer. Avoid the marled colors if you want crisp, clear colorwork though.
MY FAVORITE DETAIL
That yoke! My husband Sean designed the colorwork and I'm so pleased with how it came out. I also love the sharply contrasting cuffs, hem, and bands. They're not traditional, but I appreciate how they frame everything.
GENERAL TIPS
A lot of knitters work more tightly in stranded colorwork than in Stockinette, so be sure you're using a larger needle for the colorwork section if you need to to maintain gauge.
Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #WoolenExplorer, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Pathfinder Buff projects!
UPCOMING EVENTS
I'm teaching at Knit City in Vancouver October 1-2, 2016. Looks like there's one spot left in my Finishing class, and there are still spots to sign up for my classes on pi shawls and yarn substitution! Click here to sign up.
I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements
33.75 (37.75, 41.25, 45.25, 49.25, 53, 57)” (85.5
96, 105, 115, 125, 134.5, 145 cm) bust/chest circumference with 1” (2.5 cm) overlap and 26 (26.75, 27.25, 28.5, 29.25, 29.75, 30.5)” (66 68, 69, 72.5, 74.5, 75.5, 77.5 cm) long.
Intended to be worn with “2−4” (5−10 cm) of positive ease for standard fit or 9−13 in (23−33) cm for oversized fit. Shown with oversized fit.
Shown in size 45.25” (115 cm).
Yarn
Worsted weight (#4 medium).
Main Color (MC): 811 (907, 993, 1089, 1185, 1270, 1366) yd (741 829, 908, 996, 1083, 1161, 1249 m).
Contrast Color 1 (CC1): 280 (313, 343, 376, 409, 439, 472) yd (256 286, 313, 344, 374, 401, 431 m).
Contrast Color 2 (CC2): 93 (104, 114, 125, 136, 146, 157) yd (85 95, 104, 114, 124, 133, 143 m).
Shown here: Ístex Lettlopi (100% wool; 109 yd 100 m/50 g skein): colors #0086 Light Beige Heather (MC), 8 (9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 13) skeins; #0005 Black Heather (CC1), 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins; #0054 Light Ash Heather (CC2), 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s).
Needles
Size U.S. 6 (4 mm): 16” and 32” (40 and 80 cm) long circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double- pointed (dpn).
Size U.S. 8 (5 mm): 24” and 32” (60 and80 cm) long circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double- pointed (dpn).
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauges.
Notions
Stitch markers (m); stitch holders; waste yarn; size C-2 (2.75 mm) crochet hook; tapestry needle; ten 9/16” (14 mm) buttons.
Gauge
18 sts and 26 rows = 4” (10 cm) over St st using smaller needles.
18 sts and 24 rows = 4” (10 cm) over Color Patt using larger needles.
See it on Ravelry
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It's starting to feel a tiny bit like fall, and I'm sure I'm not alone in my excitement for the approach of sweater weather. If you're still feeling summer, though, this week's Rugged Knits pattern highlight is the perfect quick project to ease you into fall. The Pathfinder Buff is a neck-hugging cowl with a fun texture that'll be great to pop over your head when the weather starts to chill. I particularly had cool-weather cycling in mind for this one, and the textured pattern was actually inspired by the tread on my bike tires.
CONSTRUCTION
- Worked top-down with increases worked into the pattern for subtle shaping.
- The textured stitch pattern is only shown on charts, not written out line-by-line.
FIT
- Wear this one tight around the neck to keep out drafts without any extra bulk. It's probably a bit smaller than your head circumference so it'll stretch as you pull it on.
YARN
I love the Hazel Knits DK Lively that I knit my sample in. It's a superwash merino with a bunch of tightly-twisted plies, so even with the gorgeous semi-solid colors, it's got great stitch definition. It's super soft and incredibly bouncy.
TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- Since it's worn directly on your neck, I recommend picking something pretty soft.
- Smooth, multi-plied yarns with a tight twist are recommended to get the stitch definition.
- Cashmere and silk are wonderful, but keep in mind that if you pick a yarn that's too buttery soft, it could slouch down more than is shown in the sample.
- If you just can't get ahold of Hazel Knits DK Lively, Baah Sonoma is another hand dyed superwash DK yarn that comes in lots of lovely colors.
- For even more texture, try Fibre Company Acadia. It's pretty tweedy and not very smooth, so the stitch pattern isn't going to pop, but this yarn is gorgeous and incredibly soft.
MY FAVORITE DETAIL
The fit on this is just perfect for so many activities.
GENERAL TIPS
Be sure to swatch in the textured stitch pattern since it spreads out quite a bit more than Stockinette would.
Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #PathfinderBuff, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Pathfinder Buff projects!UPCOMING EVENTS I'm teaching at Knit City in Vancouver October 1-2, 2016. Both sessions of my Finishing class have already sold out, but there's still space to sign up for my classes on pi shawls and yarn substitution! Click here to sign up.
I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements
17.75” (45 cm) top circumference, 19” (48.5 cm) bottom circumference, and 10” (25.5 cm) long.
Yarn
159 yd (145 m) DK weight (#3 Light).
Shown here: Hazel Knits Lively DK (90% superwash merino, 10% nylon; 275 yd 251 m/130 g): color White Wing Dove, 1 skein.
Needles
Size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): 16” (40 cm) circular (cir).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions
Marker (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge
19 sts and 29 rnds = 4” (10 cm) over chart patt.
See it on Ravelry
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