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Before I begin, I want to give a quick public service announcement - Shannon Cook is giving away a copy of Rugged Knits on her blog, Very Shannon! She's also got a lovely review of the book, so head on over for your chance to win!
Okay, back to this week's post!
I'm particularly proud of this week's Rugged Knits pattern highlight, Braided Brook. When I started working on the book I knew I wanted to include a really glorious cabled sweater and it came out just as I had hoped. The central cable pattern was created through a collaboration with my husband. I've mentioned before how he works with me on color charts, but cables were a special challenge. We definitely went through several iterations of this pattern to get it to be striking and also actually physically possible to knit. I love that this finished sweater combines a relaxed, cozy look with the fit and slouchy cowl neck, with dramatic elegance that all-over cabled texture can provide.
CONSTRUCTION
- Worked bottom-up in pieces, then blocked and assembled. The cowl neck is the final step.
- Working this sweater in pieces has a bunch of advantages. Seams offer stability and reinforcement, which can be important given the fabric is fairly heavy and dense, and I worked my sample in an alpaca-blend yarn, which could stretch over time without the help of seams. Working in pieces also means your project is never so huge that it gets cumbersome, and you only have to focus on parts of the cable charts at once.
- It features lots of details that make for a flattering fit: set-in sleeves, waist shaping that's worked into the cable pattern, and sloped shoulders.
FIT
- The fit is relaxed. I recommend 3-5" (7.5-12.5 cm) of positive ease to get the look shown in the sample photos.
YARN
I knit my sample in a great staple yarn - Berroco Ultra Alpaca. It's a 50/50 wool/alpaca blend and I love that it gives most of the resilience and bounce of wool while also offering a subtle halo and a bit of extra warmth from the alpaca content. It's a multi-plied worsted spun yarn with a pretty tight twist, so it gives amazing stitch definition, but it also has a very soft look.
TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- Depending on the look you want, there are a lot of different options for this sweater. Ultra Alpaca is a pretty standard worsted, so first look for yarns that recommend about 20 sts = 4" (10 cm). I do recommend opting for a fairly soft yarn since the cowl neck is bound to be right on the skin.
- For a light, tweedy look, try one of my favorite yarns, Brooklyn Tweed Shelter or Hikoo Kenzie.
- If you want something with a clean, sophisticated look, how about Quince & Co. Lark?
- The semisolid colors of Hazel Knits Cadence would create an artsy, watercolor feel with popping stitch definition.
- I'm considering making a sweater for myself in O-Wool Balance, a 50/50 wool/cotton blend. I've got a sweater's-worth in Sapphire & I think this would be a great option for anyone worrying that it could be too warm in alpaca.
MY FAVORITE DETAIL
Those cables are so dreamy!
GENERAL TIPS
Cables cause fabric to draw in very dramatically, so be sure to use a yarn that's based on the recommended gauge of the sample yarn (about 20 sts = 4" (10 cm)) rather than going with the gauge over the cable pattern. The pattern gives gauge in Stockinette and cables, as well as the width of the central cable panel to help you check your gauge.
Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #Braided Brook, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Braided Brook projects!
UPCOMING EVENTS
I'm teaching at Knit City in Vancouver October 1-2, 2016. Both sessions of my Finishing class have already sold out, but there's still space to sign up for my classes on pi shawls and yarn substitution! Click here to sign up.
I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements
34.5 (38, 42.5, 47, 51, 55)” (87.5 (96.5, 108, 119.5, 129.5, 139.5) cm bust circumference, and 24 (24.5, 25.5, 26, 27, 27.5)” (61 62, 65, 66, 68.5, 70 cm) length
Intended to be worn with 3–5” (7.5–13 cm) of positive ease
Shown in size 38” (96.5 cm)
Yarn
1296 (1438, 1589, 1740, 1901, 2043) yd (1185 1315, 1453, 1591, 1738, 1868 m) worsted weight (#4 Medium) yarn
Shown here: Berroco Ultra Alpaca (50% alpaca, 50% wool; 215 yd 197 m/100 g): color #62111 Zephyr, 7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 10) skeins
Needles
Size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm) straight and 24” (60 cm) long circular (cir)
Size U.S. 6 (4 mm) 24” (60 cm) long circular (cir)
Size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm) straight and 24” (60 cm) long circular (cir)
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauges.
Notions
Stitch markers (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle
Gauge
20 sts and 27 rows = 4” (10 cm) over St st using largest needles
26 sts and 27 rows = 4” (10 cm) over side cables using largest needles
34-st Sleeve Cable Panel = 41⁄2” (11.5 cm) wide 74-st Center Cable Panel = 71⁄2” (19 cm) wide
See it on Ravelry
I've got a thing for super bulky shawls, so I couldn't do an entire book without including one. This week's Rugged Knits pattern highlight, Surging River, has a simple but beautiful lace edging and a cozy Stockinette body. Work one up in no time for a gorgeous winter accessory for yourself or to give as a gift!
CONSTRUCTION
- Worked bottom-up, starting with the lace edging.
- During the Stockinette section, the shawl is decreased at the center and sides to create a triangle shape.
- The final few stitches are grafted together using Kitchener stitch for a clean finish.
FIT
- This is a fairly large shawl - 66" (167.5 cm) across the top wingspan. Since it's a full triangle rather than a crescent, there's a lot of cozy fabric to keep you warm.
YARN
Imperial Yarn Native Twist (100% wool; 150 yd/4 oz hank) is a super bulky yarn (recommended gauge is 12-14 sts = 4" (10 cm)) that's lofty. It relaxes beautifully when washed.
- I worked it at an even looser gauge for this project - 10 sts = 4" (10 cm) - so that the resulting fabric is draping and airy.
- It's quite soft and cozy!
TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- Last week's pattern, Textured Wisp, was also worked in super bulky yarn and the yarns for these two projects are mostly interchangeable.
- If you're going for lofty and airy, like is shown in the photos, I recommend loosely spun super bulky yarns like Quince and Co. Puffin, and Hinterland Watershed.
- This one could also be beautiful in a denser yarn like Malabrigo Rasta or Madelinetosh Home. Both of these yarns recommend a denser gauge than the sample yarn (8-10 sts = 4" (10 cm)), so you'd get a much heavier fabric, but the shine, drape, and depth of color could be incredible.
- I think this could be incredibly soft, light, and cozy in Rowan Brushed Fleece, though the lace would be more hinted at rather than popping since the yarn is very, very fluffy. Swatch before you knit, though! This is a really different yarn and it could be a bit hole-y at the pattern gauge since its recommended gauge is 13 sts = 4" (10 cm).
MY FAVORITE DETAIL
I never get tired of oversized lace motifs! They juxtapose elegant sweetness with boldness and that combination is pretty much my life goal.
GENERAL TIPS
You can easily change the size of this shawl by casting on more or fewer 14-stitch repeats of the lace pattern.
Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #SurgingRiver, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Surging River projects!
UPCOMING EVENTS
I'm teaching at Knit City in Vancouver October 1-2, 2016. Both sessions of my Finishing class have already sold out, but there's still space to sign up for my classes on pi shawls and yarn substitution! Click here to sign up.
I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Size
66” (167.5 cm) wide and 29” (73.5 cm) long.
Yarn
544 yd (497 m) chunky weight (#5 Super Bulky).
Shown here: Imperial Yarn Native Twist (100% wool; 150 yd/4 oz hank): color #06 Cobalt Blue, 4 hanks.
Needles
Needles
Size U.S. 13 (9 mm) 40” (100 cm) or longer circular (cir).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions
Markers (m); removable marker; tapestry needle.
Gauge
10 sts and 15 rows = 4” (10 cm) over St st.
See it on Ravelry
Last weekend I got the chance to talk to a whole lot of knitters about Rugged Knits at Beehive Wool Shop. Thanks so much to those of you who came! I helped knitters pick out yarn for a bunch of projects, but I had a lot of fun figuring out the best yarn to substitute for this vest since the Imperial Yarn Bulky 2 Strand wasn't available. We ended up going with yarn from a local friend of mine - Hinterland Watershed.
CONSTRUCTION
- Worked bottom-up in the round to the armholes, then front and back are worked back and forth.
- Shoulders joined using 3-needle bind-off for a firm seam that adds durability.
- The armhole and neck edgings are picked up after joining the shoulders and are worked with short row shaping for a flattering sleeve cap look that's reflected in the neck trim.
FIT
- Wear this vest with +1-3 in/2.5-7.5 cm of positive ease. Avoid going too oversized - you don't want the relatively thick fabric to stand out from your body.
- Gentle waist shaping and short row shoulder shaping make for a great fit.
YARN
Imperial Yarn Bulky 2 Strand (100% wool; 200 yd 183 m/116 g skein) is an un-spun roving yarn that is very delicate as you knit with it, but creates a gorgeous and amazingly light fabric.
- I chose this one particularly for its loft, and it's why the pattern is called a "Wisp."
- It knits up at a very chunky gauge - the recommended gauge is 12 sts = 4 in/10 cm and I knit it up with the textured stitch pattern at 9 sts = 4 in/10 cm.
- This yarn is really soft and the resulting fabric is incredibly cuddly.
TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- Like last week's pattern, Elderberry Road, the textured stitch pattern used in Textured Wisp spreads out more than Stockinette fabric would, so I suggest choosing a yarn based on the recommended gauge of Bulky 2 Strand (12 sts = 4 in/10 cm) rather than the listed pattern gauge (9 sts = 4 in/10 cm) to get the desired fabric.
- I recommend a super bulky yarn that's spun loosely rather than something super dense. That'll give you the lofty fabric that's shown in the sample. Dense, smooth yarns like Malabrigo Rasta are likely to give you a heavier vest that's more likely to grow out of shape over time.
- The yarn I picked out for a knitter last weekend at Beehive could be a great substitute: Hinterland Watershed is a 50/50 wool/alpaca blend (a singles) that's spun fairly loosely. It's pretty wooly and soft without being too smooth for this project. (Plus, the alpaca is produced right here in Victoria by my friend Hanahlie's alpaca herd and the wool is all Canadian. It's even milled in Alberta!)
- Another super bulky yarn I love is Quince and Co. Puffin. It's 100% wool, and soft while still feeling lofty and a bit rustic. It's a singles and it's sturdy, but the spin is still fairly gentle.
- Another option is actually another Imperial yarn: Native Twist. It's actually spun as a singles, unlike the un-spunBulky 2 Strand, but it puffs up a lot after wet blocking and calls for a similar gauge range. (I used it for the Surging River shawl.)
MY FAVORITE DETAIL
I love that this vest looks chic, but is super fast to knit! It was probably the fasted garment I ever made - my sample size only took about 400 yards of yarn!
GENERAL TIPS
Like last week's sweater, parts of this vest are worked in the round and parts are worked in rows, so be sure your gauge is the same for both. It's helpful to swatch both in the round and in rows to confirm that you're getting gauge.
Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #TexturedWisp, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Textured Wisp projects!
UPCOMING EVENTS
I'm teaching at Knit City in Vancouver October 1-2, 2016. Both sessions of my Finishing class have already sold out, but there's still space to sign up for my classes on pi shawls and yarn substitution! Click here to sign up.
I'll also be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Sizes
32 (35.5, 41, 44.5, 48, 51.5)” (81.5 90, 104, 113, 122, 131 cm) bust circumference and 25 (25.5, 26.25, 26.25, 27, 27.5)” (63.5 65, 66.5, 66.5, 68.5, 70 cm) long.
Shown in size 35.5” (90 cm).
Intended to be worn with 1–3” (2.5–7.5 cm) of positive ease.
Yarn
Bulky weight (#6 Super Bulky).
Main Color (MC): 296 (330, 378, 410, 442, 475) yd (271 302, 345, 375, 404, 434 m).
Contrast Color (CC): 69 (74, 88, 95, 106, 111) yd (63 67, 80, 87, 97, 101 m).
Shown here: Imperial Yarn Bulky 2 Strand (100% wool; 200 yd/4 oz cake): colors #02 Pearl gray (MC), 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) cakes; #46 Quail (CC), 1 cake.
Needles
Size U.S. 11 (8 mm) 16” and 32” (40 and 80 cm) circular (cir).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions
Markers (m); stitch holders; 3 size U.S. 11 (8 mm) double-pointed needles (dpn) for shoulder bind-off; tapestry needle.
Gauge
9 sts and 16.5 rows = 4” (10 cm) over Broken Rib patt.
See it on Ravelry
SaveSave
I had a fantastic time at Tolt last weekend! It was great teaching knitters about color work, and I loved celebrating the launch of Rugged Knits with friends. I was particularly excited that my aunt who reminded me how to knit when I was 18 and two of my cousins came to the signing! My cousin Sophie wanted to cast on Elderberry Road asap, so with her as inspiration, that's today's pattern highlight.
CONSTRUCTION
- Worked bottom-up: the body is worked as one piece, then the sleeves are worked in the round to the sleeve caps, then worked back and forth in rows.
- Shoulders and sleeve caps are sewn in using mattress stitch to add stability.
- The button bands and neck trim are picked up and worked after seaming. A few rows of garter stitch between the pick-up and the ribbing add a nice, clean detail.
FIT
- This one is designed to be worn fairly fitted, so if you're in between sizes, I recommend rounding down. (The sleeve cap shape means that it probably won't look its best with an oversized fit.)
- The recommended ease is +1-3 in/2.5-7.5 cm.
- Gentle waist shaping adds to the flattering fit.
YARN
Berroco Blackstone Tweed (65% wool, 25% mohair, 10% angora; 130 yd 119 m/50 g skein) is an aran weight yarn with a recommended gauge of 18 sts = 4 in/10 cm.
- It's got a lovely tweedy look that makes this a classic, traditional-looking sweater.
- The mohair and angora content gives a lovely, soft halo.
- Majority wool content means this is a resilient yarn without a ton of drape.
- It's got 2 plies that are gently twisted, so there's a good amount of texture. The stitch definition is soft rather than crisp.
TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- The gauge in the pattern is 16.5 sts = 4 in/10 cm, but I don't recommend using that to choose a yarn. The textured stitch pattern spreads out more than Stockinette fabric would, so I suggest choosing a yarn that recommends a gauge of 16-19 stitches = 4 in/10 cm instead to get a similar fabric to the sample.
- Sadly, the yarn used in the sample has been discontinued. Lots of yarn shops still have stock, though, so try your LYS to see if they've still got it!
- A possible substitute that Berroco recommends is Tuscan Tweed. It's a tweedy yarn that includes wool and mohair, like Blackstone Tweed, and the recommended gauge is the same, so the fabric is likely to be similar. The color palette is lovely too - I'd love to see this worked up in Oak and Cornflower!
- I think this could be a super cozy winter sweater in Imperial Yarn Columbia or Cestari Traditional 2-Ply. Both of those have a buttery lanolin-rich feel and combine ruggedness with softness in a way that makes my heart sing. They'd both make a denser fabric than in the sample and would likely have slightly less drape.
- For a crisp, clean look, Quince and Co. Lark. The tight twist and many plies will make for popping stitch definition and the clear, solid colors give a modern, understated feel.
- For a super soft lounge-y sweater, try Malabrigo Merino Worsted. It's so squishy and feels amazing worn. (Beware that this singles yarn pills like crazy, but it's so worth it! Just shave your sweater every now and then!)
MY FAVORITE DETAIL
The color blocking with garter ridges between the sweater body and ribbed edging add a modern touch to a classic silhouette.
GENERAL TIPS
Parts of this sweater are worked in the round and parts are worked in rows, so be sure your gauge is the same for both. It's helpful to swatch both in the round and in rows to confirm that you're getting gauge.
Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #ElderberryRoad, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Elderberry Road projects!
UPCOMING EVENTS
My Canadian book launch event and intro to color work class using the Boreal Toque pattern are happening in Victoria this weekend!
Beehive Wool Shop, Victoria, BC - August 6-7, 2016
Book Launch Party & Signing, August 6, 11am-3pm
Boreal Toque Workshop, August 7, 1-4pm
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Sizes
32.75 (36.75, 405, 44.75, 48.75, 53.75)” (83 93.5, 103.5, 113.5, 124, 136.5 cm) bust circumference with 2 (2, 25, 2.25, 2.75, 2.75)” (5 5, 5.5, 5.5, 7, 7 cm) overlap and 23.75 (24, 24.75, 25.25, 26.25, 26.25)” (60.5 61, 63, 64, 66.5, 68 cm) long.
Intended to be worn with 1–3” (2.5–7.5 cm) of positive ease.
Shown in size 36.75” (93.5 cm).
Yarn
Worsted weight (#4 medium).
Main Color (MC): 702 (790, 876, 964, 1,053, 1,162) yd (642 722, 801, 881, 963, 1,062 m).
Contrast Color (CC): 234 (262, 291, 322, 351, 387) yd (214 239, 266, 294, 321, 354 m).
Shown here: Berroco Blackstone Tweed (65% wool, 25% mohair, 10% angora; 130 yd 119 m/50 g skein): colors #2601 Clover Honey (MC), 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9) balls; #2646 Saltwater (CC), 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) balls.
Needles
Size U.S. 6 (4 mm): 32” (80 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn).
Size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): 32” (80 cm) circular (cir).
Size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm): 32” (80 cm) circular (cir).
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions
Markers (m); stitch holders or waste yarn; tapestry needle; eight3⁄4” (20 mm) buttons.
Gauge
161⁄2 sts and 28 rows = 4” (10 cm) over Textured patt using size U.S. 6 (4 mm) needles.
See it on Ravelry
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