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Friday, November 18, 2016

Rugged Knits Pattern Highlight: Wrapup Hoodie

I know a lot of us are starting to get deep into gift knitting, and those projects tend to be on the smaller side, but I want to share the Wrapup Hoodie with you. It's not a small project, but it is a fairly straight-forward one that I think you'll love for yourself or for someone particularly knit-worthy. This is a cardigan with all the practical features -- big, functional pockets, a roomy hood, a relaxed, loose fit that keeps the sleeves slender and the shoulders carefully shaped so it's sure to look great.



CONSTRUCTION
- I chose to work this hoodie in pieces so that mattress stitch seams would add structure to the DK weight superwash yarn I picked. Pieces also mean that the project doesn't get too cumbersome while you're working on it. 

- All the pieces are worked bottom-up with shaping. The waist shaping isn't dramatic, but it does nip in a bit for a flattering look.
- It's got drop-shoulder construction and short-row shaped shoulders that are seamed together at the end using mattress stitch.
- The pockets are worked separately and then sewn on using mattress stitch.
- The hood is worked at the very end after seaming is complete. It's worked by first picking up stitches along the collar, then shaped with increases and decreases, and joined at the top with three-needle bind-off.
- The bands and hood edging are worked all at once (so use a long circular needle to fit all the way around!)
- Bands are striped garter stitch, giving a subtle, but striking detail.
- Button loops are worked last and sewn on.

FIT
- This hoodie is designed to be worn with an oversized fit -- about 8-10 inches/20.5-25.5 cm of positive ease. That means it'll be comfortable and easy to move in.

- The sleeves are kept slender so the overall impression is of a flattering fit even though the body has so much positive ease.
- A hip-length silhouette makes this sweater great outerwear in mild climates.

YARN
I just had to have a couple very particular colours, so I used two different yarns for this one. The main colour is Baah Yarns Sonoma, and the contrast colour is Hazel Knits DK Lively. Both are superwash worsted spun Merino yarns with a whole lot of plies, a tight twist, and fantastic bounce. They work beautifully together. If you have a sweater quantity of one yarn, you may be able to use some stash leftovers for the contrast colour.


TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- Pick wool or wool blend yarn with a tight twist and a bunch of plies to help the sweater keep its shape. The seams offer some support, but I recommend avoiding very slippery yarns or those without memory like alpaca or silk because the sweater is long with a lot of fabric.
- DK weight sock yarns will give a similar look to the sample. Think Madelinetosh Tosh DK, Quince & Co. Phoebe, or Malabrigo Arroyo.
- For a more rustic, tweedy look, you could try Jamieson's Double Knitting, or, for a smooth, matte look, go for Brooklyn Tweed's new DK base - Arbor.


MY FAVORITE DETAIL
Those pockets are just perfection. I love the diagonal openings and subtle edging.

GENERAL TIPS
After your swatch is dry, hang it up for a day or so before measuring to check for vertical growth. Measure your gauge before and after to see if there's any change.


Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #WrapUpHoodie, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Wrapup Hoodie projects!


PATTERN DETAILS


Finished Measurements

38 (411⁄4, 451⁄2, 483⁄4, 521⁄2, 561⁄4)” (96.5 (105, 115.5, 124, 133.5, 143) cm bust circumference with 13⁄4 (13⁄4, 13⁄4, 23⁄4, 23⁄4, 23⁄4)” (4.5 4.5, 4.5, 7, 7, 7 cm) overlap and 26 (261⁄4, 263⁄4, 273⁄4, 283⁄4, 2912)” (66 66.5, 68, 70.5, 73, 75 cm) long.

Intended to be worn with 8–10” (20.5–25.5 cm) of positive ease. 
Shown in size 411⁄4” (105 cm).

Yarn 
DK weight (#3 Light). 
Main Color (MC): 1626 (1774, 1951, 2066, 2230, 2408) yd (1487 1622, 1784, 1889, 2039, 2202 m). 
Contrast Color (CC): 86 (86, 87, 133, 136, 138) yd (78 78, 79, 121, 124, 126 m).

Shown here: 
Main Color: Baah Sonoma (100% super- wash merino wool; 234 yd 214 m/100 g): color Pecan (MC), 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9) skeins. 
Contrast Color: Hazel Knits Lively DK (90% merino wool, 10% nylon; 275 yd 251 m/130 g); color White Wing Dove (CC), 1 skein.

Needles 

Size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm) straight, 60” (150 cm) long circular (cir), and pair of double-pointed (dpn). 
Size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm) straight and 24” (60 cm) long circular (cir). 
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions
Markers (m); tapestry needle; five 11⁄2” (38 mm) toggle buttons.

Gauge

22 sts and 34 rows = 4” (10 cm) over St st using larger needles.


See it on Ravelry

1 comment:

  1. Love this. I hope to get your book for Christmas! All designs in 'Rugged' are fabulous. Thanks!

    ReplyDelete

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