I make knitting patterns for a living, so I have a lot of yarn. A good amount of it is set aside for particular projects, but I also have an ever-growing collection of single skeins that I want to try out with the idea that I could design with them someday. But as much as I love the idea of playing with new yarn, it turns out that it's hard to squeeze play into my pretty packed work schedule. So instead I've decided to just make it a part of my weekly routine with the swatch-a-week project. If you follow me on Instagram, you've seen my swatches so far, but I wanted to do a little round-up to talk about some of the yarns that I've tried and what I think of it all. How the project works: Each week I choose a yarn and make a big swatch with it. I measure and photograph it pre-blocking and post-blocking, and then take a short video of the fabric to share how it behaves at the gauge I knit it at. (I didn't think to take videos of the first few swatches - sorry!) I also write down my needle size and gauge on the label and tie the label to my swatch so I have a starting-point if I decide I want to design with that yarn. Where the yarn comes from: Most of the yarn I use was given to me by the yarn company. Sometimes yarn shops will give me yarn and sometimes I do buy it. I only accept yarn I'm intrigued by, so if it seems like my reviews are super positive, it's possible I'm unconsciously biased because the yarn was given to me and I want to be nice to the yarn co, or it could be that I just know what I like in the first place.
THE SWATCHES Yarn: Noro Kureyon (left) Where I got it: YarnCanada.ca sent it to me. Needles I used: US 7/4.5 mm Gauge I got: 16 sts/27 rows = 4"/10 cm What it's like: This is a 100% wool worsted weight yarn that feel like a singles, but it's got two plies in there. It's very wooly in the best way and it has a dry, slightly toothy feel. I love a good crunchy wool yarn, so I'm definitely into it, though if you only like super-soft yarns, this one might not be for you. It floats more than drapes once it's knit up. And watching the colours change is so, so addictive. I really didn't want to bind off my swatch because I wanted to see that neon green knit up! What I might design with it: I'd love leg warmers with it, but I know I'm a bigger fan of leg warmers that most people, so I think I'm more likely to do a hat. I'm really tempted to try colorwork with it, but I'd need just the right contrast colour to make it work. It isn't super soft, so I probably wouldn't do a cowl out of it, but thick mittens could be great. Where you can get some: If you're in Canada, YarnCanada has a great selection of colours. It's also available at Webs and a whole lot of local yarn shops.
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Yarn: Spincycle Yarns Debauchery (top, second from the left) Where I got it: Spincycle gave it to me at TNNA. Needles I used: US 0/2 mm Gauge I got: 38 sts/62 rows = 4"/10 cm What it's like: Debauchery is a 100% BFL plied lace weight. It's light and floaty and wooly. I think I need to knit this up in a lace stitch pattern to truly see its potential because, while I liked it in the Stockinette, my swatch seemed a little sloppy. (I'm not great at knitting at such a tiny gauge.) The fabric is soft and exhibits one of my favourite combos of characteristics - delicate but rustic. What I might design with it: This would make a stunning lace shawl. I'm thinking a pi shawl or a huge rectangular wrap that would take a year to knit. Or this could be a gorgeous lightweight shrug or cardigan to wear with fancy dresses. Where you can get some: Check out the Spincycle website.
Yarn: Amano Puyu (bottom right) Where I got it: Amano Yarns sent it from Peru. What it's like: This one is pretty unique and made with some modern technology. It's a super bulky silk/alpaca blend that's made by forcing alpaca into a silk cage with air pressure. It's shockingly soft with a very noticeable halo, and it's really light for silk/alpaca thanks to the construction method. The big stitches melt into each other thanks to the alpaca halo. Needles I used: US 13/9 mm Gauge I got: 10.5 sts/16 rows =4"/10 cm What I might design with it: Because it's so incredibly soft, I want to wear this directly next to my skin - I'm thinking neck wear. I'd love to make it into a cowl or a big shawl. I think I'll avoid very interesting stitch patterns because the halo would probably just obscure anything more complicated than Stockinette or garter. Then again, I think I'd love the subtle cables I could create with this. That would be so incredibly lush! Where you can get some: Try your local yarn shop or Webs.
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Yarn: Quince & Co. Sparrow (bottom, second from the left) Where I got it: I bought it from Beehive Wool Shop in Victoria. Needles I used: US 3/3 mm Gauge I got: 25 sts/37 rows = 4"/10 cm What it's like: Sparrow is a 100% Linen fingering weight yarn. It's smooth with a bit of crunchiness while knitting, and it feels surprisingly cool to knit with (like temperature). Plant fibre yarns that don't have any elasticity are often hard on the hands, but I was comfortable knitting with it. The fabric just drapes for days. It definitely softened up a lot with washing. What I might design with it: I'd love to have a generous summer wrap, camisole, or dressy cardigan and I really want to try this out in a few different lace patterns. Where you can get some:Quince & Co. website Yarn: YOTH Father (top right) Where I got it: I bought it at Knit Fit in Seattle. Needles I used: US 7/4.5 mm Gauge I got: 16 sts/24 rows = 4"/10 cm What it's like: Father is a 100% Rambouillet, plied worsted weight. It's a really middle-of-the-road yarn in that it's very soft, but also wooly. It's got a lot of bounce, but it's also pretty buttery. It doesn't have a ton of drape, but it does have a lovely weight to it. The colour is really matte with a subtle semi-solid thing. It's on the heavier What I might design with it: I actually had a plan for this particular yarn and bought a sweater quantity of it so I could make myself a Valley Trail Pullover. (My contrast colour is Blue Raspberry.) I didn't follow my usual swatch-a-week procedure with this one in that I made a sleeve-as-swatch for an actual project rather than just a rectangular swatch, but I feel okay about bending the rules a bit. I have no doubt this is going to be a very wearable sweater, but I'd also love this in a big, 2-color crescent-shaped shawl that I'd wear wrapped like a mega-scarf. Where you can get some:YOTH website
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Yarn: Brooklyn Tweed Arbor (top middle) Where I got it: Brooklyn Tweed sent it. Needles I used: US 4/3.5 mm Gauge I got: 21.5 sts/36 rows = 4"/10 cm What it's like: Arbor is Brooklyn Tweed's latest yarn and it's really different from the rest of their line. It's a worsted spun, smooth, plied DK Targhee wool. It's a super clean, matte yarn that felt effortless to knit with. The fabric was surprisingly dry and light and even though the construction is so different from other BT yarns, it actually fits right in with them. Like the rest of the line, Arbor is grown and manufactured in the US. What I might design with it: I feel like this one could be anything. I've seen it knit up in cables and the stitch definition is stunning. I think this would make a perfect mid-weight sweater and a gorgeous lace wrap. It leans more toward elegant than rustic, so I'm not going to let go of my Loft and Shelter (since you know I love the rustic), but so far I'm a big fan of this new addition. Where you can get some:Brooklyn Tweed website
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Yarn: Fibre Company Arranmore (bottom middle) Where I got it: Kelbourne Woolens sent it. Needles I used: US 7/4.5 mm Gauge I got: 16.5 sts/29 rows = 4"/10 cm What it's like: Arranmore is a tweedy aran weight Merino/silk/cashmere blend with a ton of gorgeous texture. Like the other Fibre Co. yarns, it's got amazing colour depth and richness and as you would expect from the fibre content, it's incredibly soft. My husband saw the skein and said it was the coolest yarn he'd ever seen. My skein was the colour Cronan. What I might design with it: An oversized cable-y sweater would be amazing! I'd also love a good winter hat, and even though the yarn itself is so textured, it's calling to me to add more texture - knit/purl patterns, cables - anything with a bit of a 3-D feel. Where you can get some: Try your LYS or Webs.
Cedar Bough is the last of my pattern highlights for Rugged Knits! I had a concept for this shawl long before I actually designed it and this is one of those that required a huge amount of swatching to figure out exactly how I wanted to achieve those geometric lines. In the end I settled on twisted stitches that are slipped on the wrong side, and the result is exactly what I hoped for. This is one of the pieces that I'm wearing the most from this collection. It's got a generous wingspan and looks great worn scarf-style, which is my favourite way to show off my shawls.
CONSTRUCTION - This shallow triangle shawl is worked side-to-side using increases and decreases to create the shape. - The lace edging is worked at the same time as the body of the shawl. - A clean I-cord edging is applied to the top after completing the rest of the shawl for a neat finish. - The twisted slip stitch pattern creates a dense, hard-wearing fabric. FIT - The shawl has a generous 71 in/180.5 cm wingspan, so it can be wrapped around a bunch or draped for elegant warmth. YARN I picked Quince and Co. Tern, a fingering weight silk/wool blend with a tight twist and a bunch of plies. Not only is the stitch definition amazingly crisp, but the silk adds a tiny bit of shine that makes the surface design pop even more. TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING - To get the full effect, choose a tightly-twisted plied yarn with a bit of something shiny in it like silk, cotton, or even mohair if you want a little halo. - A good, sturdy hand dyed sock yarn could be lovely if you want a bit of a watercolour effect. - Sincere Sheep Agleam could be a lovey choice - it's a Tencel/Merino blend.
MY FAVORITE DETAIL This one is all about the surface design. It isn't exactly a detail, more the main event, but I love those geometric lines.
GENERAL TIPS Because the fabric is so dense, this takes a bit more yarn and time than you might think looking at the photos, but it's worth it in the end! Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #CedarBoughShawl, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Cedar Bough shawl!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements 71” (180.5 cm) wide and 243⁄4” (63 cm) long
Yarn 1215 yd (1111 m) fingering weight (#1 Super Fine). Shown here: Quince & Co. Tern (75% American wool, 25% silk; 221 yd 202 m/50 g): color #404 Seaweed, 6 skeins. Needles Size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): 32” (80 cm) long circular (cir). Size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm) pair of double-pointed (dpn) for I-cord edging. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle; blocking wires. Gauge 28 sts and 35 rows = 4” (10 cm) over Twisted Sts patt (Charts 1–8) using larger needles, blocked.
Bright River is one of those sweaters that can really easily be dressed up or down. I wore it with jeans over a Merino base layer last week, but I think it would be perfect with a skirt for a Christmas party. It's so incredibly soft and shimmery, and it's perfectly warm. I wanted a pullover that was elegant, but cozy, and I think this fits the bill perfectly.
CONSTRUCTION - It's worked bottom-up seamlessly. The little sleeves are worked and then joined with the yoke for raglan shaping. After completing the yoke, stitches are picked up for that gorgeous, draping cowl. - The cowl is shaped using progressively larger needle sizes. - Waist shaping and an engaging Cartridge Belt Rib stitch pattern create a flattering fit. FIT - This sweater hugs curves and it's designed to be worn with zero-2 inches of negative ease. Pick a size that's smaller than what you'd usually go with. YARN The yarn I used is so glorious and I was so delighted to get to work with it. It's Fibre Co. Terra, a singles blend of wool, alpaca, and silk, and it has these gorgeous little silk nubs that are in different colours and add texture, beauty, and the sweetest glow to the fabric. This yarn is so unique that any substitution is likely to look really different, but it can, of course, be done. TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING - Pick a worsted weight yarn with wool to help keep its shape, but including something shiny and slippery in there would be lovely too. - I'd love to see this in something very different like Quince and Co. Owl, a tweedy alpaca/wool blend. - As I'm sitting here wearing a lush sweater in Malabrigo Worsted, I have to recommend that one too. It's an extremely soft and squishy singles Merino that I think would be lovely.
MY FAVORITE DETAIL The super soft cowl neck is really divine to wear.
GENERAL TIPS I recommend choosing a yarn with at least some wool in it. The stitch pattern can be helpful in adding a little resilience, but the sweater is seamless, so it can use a little help from a bouncy fibre too. Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #BrightRiverSweater, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Wrapup Hoodie projects!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements 271⁄4 (311⁄4, 351⁄4, 391⁄4, 421⁄2, 461⁄2)” (69 79.5, 89.5, 99.5, 108, 118) cm bust circumference and 253⁄4 (261⁄2, 27, 273⁄4, 283⁄4, 291⁄4)” (65.5 67.5, 68.5, 70.5, 73, 74.5 cm) long. Shown in size 311⁄4” (79.5) cm. Intended to be worn with 0–2” (0–5 cm) of negative ease.
Yarn 843 (939, 1113, 1250, 1442, 1617) yd (771 858, 1017, 1143, 1318, 1478 m) Aran weight (#4 medium). Shown here: The Fibre Company Terra (40% baby alpaca, 40% merino wool, 20% silk; 98 yd 89 m/50 g): color Olive Leaf, 9 (10, 12, 13, 15, 17) skeins Needles Size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm) 16” and 24” (40 and 60 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double- pointed (dpn). Size U.S. 8 (5 mm) 24” (60 cm) circular (cir). Size U.S. 9 (5.5 mm) 24” (60 cm) circular (cir). Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Markers (m); stitch holders or waste yarn; tapestry needle. Gauge 20 sts and 30 rnds = 4” (10 cm) over Cartridge Belt Rib using smallest needle.
Happy Thanksgiving to all my U.S. friends! I hope your day is full of good food and loved ones. I'm going to celebrate tomorrow with family coming up to Victoria from Seattle, but for today I'm working and thinking of how grateful I am for knitters and my designer colleagues. This community is something I couldn't have dreamed up. Not only do I get to interact with kind and enthusiastic knitters who use my patterns and attend my workshops, but I'm also among professionals who value collaboration and support. I'm so thankful for the encouragement and advice that has been given to me freely since I was a brand new designer. That spirit of mutual support is a big bright light to me, and the Indie Design Gift Along is an amazing example of it. If you're not familiar with the GAL, it's an enormous group sale (335 designers are participating!) and online knitting party. Participating designers are offering 25% off a specially-selected group of their indie patterns for one week. The idea is that these patterns are great for gift knitting, but you might just knit yourself a gift too! The sale is on now (use the code giftalong2016 to get your discount), and goes through November 30. But it isn't just the sale that's fun! There are also a huge number of Knit Alongs happening in the group and there will be so, so many prizes. My sale bundle includes 16 of my most popular patterns (you can see a few of them above) and you can check out the whole bundle here. I'm hoping to get a little gift knitting in myself, and to make the experience a little more relaxing, I'm planning to knit from friends' patterns rather than designing my own. Part of the goal of the GAL is to allow designers to promote each other, so here are the patterns I'm hoping to knit and gift.
I tried this hat on at the local Victoria launch party for Within, a new book from Shannon Cook and Jane Richmond, and it had just the perfect amount of slouch and texture. I may leave off the pom pom, but I feel like it'll be a really fun and fast knit. It's called Tread and it's by Shannon Cook, and lucky us, the pattern is in her GAL bundle! (Though I'll admit, I do already have the book in print. It's gorgeous. Go look!) While I haven't knit it yet, I have had a good look over the pattern and it seems really straightforward, with lots of gorgeous images, three sizes, helpful hints, and links to additional resources. I also love a good, clean layout and it really delivers!
The other pattern I'd like to knit up is the Cayucos Shawl by Stephannie Tallent. I just love the texture in the body of the shawl and that cabled/lace edging looks so fun (and gorgeous!) I also had a good look at this pattern, and I was so impressed! The pattern includes instructions for three gauges (lace, DK, and worsted), a single-color and two-color versions, and the texture and lace instructions are given in charted and written instructions. The pattern has all these great extra helpful things too, like a special chart and written instructions for swatching, tips for using up whatever quantity of yarn you've got on hand, and a clear description of how the construction works. I'm thinking I'll do mine in a woolly neutral. I hope you'll be participating in the GAL too! Here are some links to get you started: - Gift Along Ravelry Group - Participating Designers Thread - My GAL bundle Don't forget to use the code giftalong2016 to get the 25% discount and please post in the KAL/CAL forum threads, and use the hashtag #giftalong2016 for your social media posts. Happy gifting!
I know a lot of us are starting to get deep into gift knitting, and those projects tend to be on the smaller side, but I want to share the Wrapup Hoodie with you. It's not a small project, but it is a fairly straight-forward one that I think you'll love for yourself or for someone particularly knit-worthy. This is a cardigan with all the practical features -- big, functional pockets, a roomy hood, a relaxed, loose fit that keeps the sleeves slender and the shoulders carefully shaped so it's sure to look great.
CONSTRUCTION - I chose to work this hoodie in pieces so that mattress stitch seams would add structure to the DK weight superwash yarn I picked. Pieces also mean that the project doesn't get too cumbersome while you're working on it. - All the pieces are worked bottom-up with shaping. The waist shaping isn't dramatic, but it does nip in a bit for a flattering look. - It's got drop-shoulder construction and short-row shaped shoulders that are seamed together at the end using mattress stitch. - The pockets are worked separately and then sewn on using mattress stitch. - The hood is worked at the very end after seaming is complete. It's worked by first picking up stitches along the collar, then shaped with increases and decreases, and joined at the top with three-needle bind-off. - The bands and hood edging are worked all at once (so use a long circular needle to fit all the way around!) - Bands are striped garter stitch, giving a subtle, but striking detail. - Button loops are worked last and sewn on. FIT - This hoodie is designed to be worn with an oversized fit -- about 8-10 inches/20.5-25.5 cm of positive ease. That means it'll be comfortable and easy to move in. - The sleeves are kept slender so the overall impression is of a flattering fit even though the body has so much positive ease. - A hip-length silhouette makes this sweater great outerwear in mild climates. YARN I just had to have a couple very particular colours, so I used two different yarns for this one. The main colour is Baah Yarns Sonoma, and the contrast colour is Hazel Knits DK Lively. Both are superwash worsted spun Merino yarns with a whole lot of plies, a tight twist, and fantastic bounce. They work beautifully together. If you have a sweater quantity of one yarn, you may be able to use some stash leftovers for the contrast colour. TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING - Pick wool or wool blend yarn with a tight twist and a bunch of plies to help the sweater keep its shape. The seams offer some support, but I recommend avoiding very slippery yarns or those without memory like alpaca or silk because the sweater is long with a lot of fabric. - DK weight sock yarns will give a similar look to the sample. Think Madelinetosh Tosh DK, Quince & Co. Phoebe, or Malabrigo Arroyo. - For a more rustic, tweedy look, you could try Jamieson's Double Knitting, or, for a smooth, matte look, go for Brooklyn Tweed's new DK base - Arbor.
MY FAVORITE DETAIL Those pockets are just perfection. I love the diagonal openings and subtle edging.
GENERAL TIPS After your swatch is dry, hang it up for a day or so before measuring to check for vertical growth. Measure your gauge before and after to see if there's any change. Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #WrapUpHoodie, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Wrapup Hoodie projects!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements 38 (411⁄4, 451⁄2, 483⁄4, 521⁄2, 561⁄4)” (96.5 (105, 115.5, 124, 133.5, 143) cm bust circumference with 13⁄4 (13⁄4, 13⁄4, 23⁄4, 23⁄4, 23⁄4)” (4.5 4.5, 4.5, 7, 7, 7 cm) overlap and 26 (261⁄4, 263⁄4, 273⁄4, 283⁄4, 2912)” (66 66.5, 68, 70.5, 73, 75 cm) long. Intended to be worn with 8–10” (20.5–25.5 cm) of positive ease. Shown in size 411⁄4” (105 cm).
Yarn DK weight (#3 Light). Main Color (MC): 1626 (1774, 1951, 2066, 2230, 2408) yd (1487 1622, 1784, 1889, 2039, 2202 m). Contrast Color (CC): 86 (86, 87, 133, 136, 138) yd (78 78, 79, 121, 124, 126 m). Shown here: Main Color: Baah Sonoma (100% super- wash merino wool; 234 yd 214 m/100 g): color Pecan (MC), 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9) skeins. Contrast Color: Hazel Knits Lively DK (90% merino wool, 10% nylon; 275 yd 251 m/130 g); color White Wing Dove (CC), 1 skein. Needles Size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm) straight, 60” (150 cm) long circular (cir), and pair of double-pointed (dpn). Size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm) straight and 24” (60 cm) long circular (cir). Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle; five 11⁄2” (38 mm) toggle buttons. Gauge 22 sts and 34 rows = 4” (10 cm) over St st using larger needles.
This week's blog post is a new pattern, Clouds in a Blue Sky. Exploring lace on an unexpected scale has always appealed to me, and this one adds texture and color to that exploration. YARN I picked Spincycle Yarns Knit Fast, Die Young for an unusual lace edge. It adds a moodiness to the geometry of the lace, and I adore that gradual change of color. The yarn is fairly dense and heavy, so it adds some weight to the edging. For the body, I wanted a chunky yarn that would float and be pure comfort. Imperial Yarns Bulky 2 Strand is an un-spun roving that's light as air. It's very delicate while it's being knit (be gentle or you'll just pull it right apart), but it makes an incredibly cozy, lofty fabric when knit up. It's a tiny bit lighter (skinnier) than the Knit Fast, Die Young, but I stuck with the same needle size, so the gauge of the crescent body is looser than usual, and has a lovely drape despite also being so floaty. Most of my testers chose to work this up in a single color, which works as well. The gauge is 3 sts = 1"/2.5 cm, so if you've got a soft wool yarn that works well at that gauge, go for it. CONSTRUCTION The shawl is worked bottom-up, so you'll cast on for the lace edging first. The ends of the lace are shaped, and the body is worked using a short row/decreasing method. This is a really quick knit. It takes about 300 yards of yarn and some of my testers finished it in a day. It would make a lovely gift, or just a special instant gratification knit for you! KNIT FIT If you'll be in Seattle this weekend, stop by the Spincycle booth to see this shawl in person and shop for the gorgeous edging yarn. The other colors are incredible. I'll also be signing books at the YOTH booth on Sunday, Nov. 13, 2016 at 1:30. Bring your copy of Rugged Knits to be signed or pick one up while you're there! NEWSLETTER SALE I'll be sending out a coupon for this pattern in my next weekly email newsletter, so if you haven't signed up and you'd like a special deal on this pattern, please subscribe now! PATTERN SPECS Finished Measurements Wingspan: 49 in/124.5 cm Depth at Center: 15.5 in/39.5 cm Yarn Super Bulky Weight Yarn in two colors: Bottom Lace Edging: 175 yd/160 m Body of Shawl: 125 yd/114 m Bottom Lace Edging shown in Spincycle Yarns Knit Fast, Die Young (100% wool; 100 yd/91 m per 127g skein); Color: Paper Planes; 2 skeins Main Body of Shawl shown in Imperial Yarn Bulky 2 Strand (100% wool; 200 yd/183 m per 116g skein); Color: Pearl Gray; 1 skein Blocked Gauge Gauge measurement should be taken after blocking. 7 sts/16 rows = 4 in/10 cm in St st Needles & Notions Needle Sizes are recommendations only. Always use needle size necessary to obtain gauge. US #15/10 mm 40 in/100 cm circular needle tapestry needle stitch markers (optional for dividing lace repeats) Skills working lace using charted and/or written instructions, short row shaping Technical Editing by Susan Moskwa Copy Editing by Jessie Kwak SEE IT ON RAVELRY $7 PDF download If you're into this pattern, you'll probably like my other macro lace patterns too. Check out Sentiment, Pembroke Wrap, and Squam Confidential.
This week's pattern is probably the least flashy in the Rugged Knits collection, but it's one of those projects that I think will really get worn. Weathered Mountain is a slim beanie worked in super lightweight yarn with a simple, but fun-to-work knit-and-purl stitch pattern. It's great for fellas who only want basics while still being engaging to knit, and it's perfect for anyone who wants a versatile accessory that can be slipped under a bike or climbing helmet or just worn on crisp fall days.
CONSTRUCTION - This one has pretty standard construction - bottom-up, starting with a ribbed brim and topped off with a handsome square crown. FIT - It's meant to fit as a snug beanie and it's written for four adult head circumferences: 18.5 (20, 21.25, 22.75)" (47 [51, 54, 58] cm). YARN I picked Brooklyn Tweed Loft because it's just so light and lofty while still being warm. I adore the fabric it makes, particularly how it blooms so beautifully, the stitches relaxing into each other to make a cohesive but really interesting fabric. TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING - If you want the lightness in the original sample, stick with a woolen spun fingering weight yarn. Some yarns that fit this bill are Sincere Sheep Equity Fingeringand Jamieson & Smith 2 Ply Jumper Weight. - You could also go for something with crisper stitch definition. Grab that special skein of sock yarn you've been saving or try Quince & Co. Tern. MY FAVORITE DETAIL I always love a square crown. It's so neat and brings everything together so beautifully.
GENERAL TIPS This pattern includes charted and written instructions, so you're covered whichever you prefer! Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #WeatheredMountainHat, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Weathered Mountain projects! UPCOMING EVENTS I'll be teaching three workshops at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements About 18.5 (20, 21.25, 22.75)” (47 51, 54, 58 cm) circumference and 7 (7.25, 7.5, 7.75)” (18 18.5, 19, 19.5 cm) long. Example A shown on woman in size 18.5” (47 cm). Example B shown on man in size 21.25” (54 cm).
Yarn 154 (170, 181, 192) yd (141 155, 165, 175 m) sock weight (#1 Super Fine). Shown here: Brooklyn Tweed Loft (100% Targhee-Columbia wool; 275 yd 251 m/50 g): color Sap (Example A); Artifact (Example B), 1 skein. Needles Size U.S. 3 (3.25 mm): 16” (40 cm) circular (cir) and set of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle. Gauge 22.5 sts and 43 rnds = 4” (10 cm) in Dots Textured st.
I've had colorwork on the brain lately, planning for my upcoming class at Knit Fit in Seattle, so this week I'm going to highlight Passing Glacier, a worsted weight hat that's relatively quick to knit with a big payoff. This is a very toasty hat that will keep you comfy in the coldest weather.
CONSTRUCTION - This hat starts off with a provisional cast-on so that you can work a soft inner brim. I used Road to China Light, a sport weight luxury yarn for mine. Once you've completed the inside of the brim you'll switch to the contrast color of your main yarn and work a turning round, followed by the outside of the brim, worked in wide vertical stripes. Then you'll remove your provisional cast-on and join the live inner brim stitches to the outer brim, making a cozy, clean doubled brim with a secret soft layer inside. - The rest of the hat is worked following color charts to get a gorgeous swirling stitch pattern. - The crown decreases are incorporated into the color pattern. FIT - This is a snug beanie that comes in three sizes to fit ladies and gents. YARN I used Istex Lettlopi for the main yarn and Fibre Company Road to China Light for the inside-brim yarn. I love that Lettlopi is incredibly warm and insulating, and it has that lovely bit of a halo too. Some folks can find it a bit scratchy, so I opted for a luxurious super soft yarn for the inside of the brim. TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING - Stick with a hearty wool yarn for warmth, durability, and easy colorwork. Wool has good elasticity, which is more forgiving in colorwork than plant fibres, silk, or alpaca. - For a rustic, tweedy look, try one of my favorite worsted or aran yarns like Brooklyn Tweed Shelter, Imperial Yarn Columbia, or Cestari Traditional Two Ply. - Use up your luxury sock yarn leftovers for the inside of the brim. - Try working this up in your favorite hand dyed worsted for a more watercolor look. MY FAVORITE DETAIL I love the secret soft inner brim and I'm particularly proud of the crown.
GENERAL TIPS Be sure to use colors that have a strong contrast to make your color pattern pop. If you're not sure how well the colors contrast, take a picture of them together in black and white - if they still have a strong contrast without color, you're on the right track. For general colowork tips, check out the blog post I wrote for VeryShannon.com. Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #PassingGlacierHat, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Passing Glacier projects! UPCOMING EVENTS I'll be teaching three workshops at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements 19.25 (20.75, 22.5)” (49 52.5, 57 cm) head circumference and 7.5” (19 cm) long. Shown in size 20.75” (52.5 cm) Yarn Worsted weight (#4 medium): Main Color (MC): 67 (72, 78) yd (61 66, 71 m). Contrast Color 1 (CC1): 41 (45, 48) yd (37 41, 44 m). Shown here: Ístex Lettlopi (100% wool; 109 yd 100 m/50 g): colors #0053 Acorn Heather (MC), 1 skein; #0054 Light Ash Heather (CC1), 1 skein. Sportweight (#2 Fine): 26 (28, 30) yd (24 25, 27 m). Shown here: The Fibre Company Road to China Light (65% baby alpaca, 15% silk, 10% camel, 10% cashmere; 159 yd 145 m/50 g): color #710 Riverstone (CC2), 1 skein Needles Size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm): 16” (40 cm) circular (cir). Size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): 16” (40 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn). Size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm): 16” (40 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions Markers (m); size U.S. E-4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook; waste yarn; tapestry needle. Gauge 20 sts and 22 = 4” (10 cm) over chart using largest needles See it on Ravelry
This week I'm going to interrupt my Rugged Knits pattern highlights to talk about two new patterns that I published as part of a collaboration with some fantastic BC designers and a great local yarn company. Hinterland yarns are totally Canadian, with alpaca fibre from alpacas right here in Victoria that blended with Canadian wool at an Alberta mill. The yarn is perfect for this region - woolen spun, rustic, warm, and soft. It blooms like nothing I've ever seen before and I'm totally smitten with it.
Photos by Hanahlie Beise, 2016
My designs for the collection are Camber, a sophisticated, textured vest, and Halyard, a very cozy cardigan with an enormous collar.
Both garments are worked in pieces. You can, of course, modify them to be worked seamlessly if you like, but here's why I, myself want seams:
- I often find it more relaxing to work smaller pieces. It means I don't have to keep track of quite as many "at the same time" instructions. This can be especially helpful if you're new to making garments. - I like the portability of smaller pieces. - I like the satisfaction of finishing each piece. - Seams add stability and durability. - I find mattress stitch to be pretty magical - it's so neat and beautiful!
A little more about each pattern:
CAMBER
This vest is worked bottom-up with subtle waist shaping, a deep V neckline, and short row shoulder shaping for a flattering fit. It's got a clean silhouette with simple garter edgings. It's intended to be worn fairly fitted, with 0-3 in/0-7.5 cm of ease - if you plan to wear it over heavier layers, I recommend rounding up the size you make.
I adore the Hinterland Range yarn for this, as it give gorgeous stitch definition, but with the slightest halo and a beautifully cohesive fabric. If you do want to substitute, you for a heavy worsted or aran weight yarn like Imperial Yarn Columbia or Cestari Traditional Collection 2 Ply. Since it's got seams for added stability I'd be super curious to see this in a semi-solid hand dyed yarn like Hazel Knits Cadence.
Note on errata: A kind knitter pointed out to me that there were a couple of numbers problems with the back neckline and the short row shoulder shaping. I've corrected those numbers, so the pattern on Ravelry is now correct. If you already have the pattern, here's a link to the full explanation of the errata.
Shown in Hinterland Range (50% Rambouillet Wool, 50% Alpaca; 198 yd/181 m per 112 g/4 oz skein); Color: Honey; 3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) skeins
Blocked Gauge Gauge measurement should be taken after blocking. 17 sts/28 rows = 4 in/10 cm in Textured Garter Rib Pattern with larger needles
Needles & Notions Needle sizes are recommendations only; always use needle size necessary to achieve given gauge.
US #4/3.5 mm 16 in/40 cm circular needle US #4/3.5 mm 40 in/100 cm circular needle US #7/4.5 mm needle tapestry needle three .75 in/2 cm buttons
Skills working shaping in Garter Rib Pattern, short row shaping, increasing and decreasing, picking up stitches
CAMBER: $8 pdf download
HALYARD
This cardigan is worked in pieces from the bottom-up. The construction is simple, but it's got some really special details!
- The back hem is longer than the front and, when sewing up, the front and back hem are left split. - The cuffs are extra long, and the second half of the cuff seams are worked inside out so that they don't show when you turn the cuffs up. - The collar is super easy to work - it's just ribbing without any shaping. You can also button it in two different ways so that it crosses over the front or just folds down. - The sleeve caps and armholes are different for the front and back, making for a great fit.
My yarn recommendations for Camber apply to this one too, so check above for substituting suggestions.
Pattern Specs
Sizes and Finished Measurements Bust Circumference: 35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 63) in/89 (99, 109, 119.5, 129.5, 139.5, 150, 160) cm including bands
Intended to be worn with +2-4 in/5-10 cm of ease at bust for standard fit; shown in size 34 in/86.5 cm with +3 in/7.5 cm of ease on model
Shown in Hinterland Range (50% Rambouillet Wool, 50% Alpaca; 198 yd/181 m per 112g/4oz skein) Color: Truffle; 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) skeins
Blocked Gauge Gauge measurement should be taken after blocking. 18 sts/26 rows = 4 in/10 cm in St st
Needles & Notions Needle sizes are recommendations only; always use needle size necessary to achieve given gauge.
US #7/4.5 mm 32 in/80 cm circular needle (Project is worked in pieces so a circular needle isn’t required, but a circular needle will make working the collar and button bands more manageable.)
tapestry needle seven .75 in/2 cm buttons
Skills seaming (mattress stitch), picking up stitches, increasing and decreasing
Blackberry Grove is one of those effortless accessories that you can throw over any outfit to add cozy comfort and a pop of color.
CONSTRUCTION - Cowl is worked top-down and uses progressively larger needle sizes to get a draping fabric and a great shape. - It's got I-cord edgings for a clean finish. The bottom edge is worked with an I-cord bind-off and the top edge is finished by working attached I-cord at the end. FIT - This cowl drapes beautifully around your neck because the bottom edge is wider than the top edge. YARN I went with a bulky, super fluffy yarn because I was going for a soft, elegant look. Sadly the yarn I used, Berroco Kodiak, has been discontinued. Your local yarn shop may still be carrying it, and I recommend snatching up a few skeins if you can find it. TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING - To get the drape shown in the sample, stick with yarns that either have some fiber content like alpaca or silk, or are loosely spun. - If you want a look similar to the sample but can't find Kodiak, Rowan Brushed Fleece could be a good alternative. - Fibre Company Tundra could be a great option for ultimate softness without so much fluffy halo. - For a soft, watercolor look, try Malabrigo Mecha. MY FAVORITE DETAIL The cables get progressively larger just because of the needle size difference and I'm all about how the scale of the pattern changes so subtly.
I'll be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements 27.5” (70 cm) top circumference, 40” (101.5 cm) bottom circumference, and 11.5” (29 cm) long.
Yarn 253 yd (231 m) bulky weight (#5 Bulky). Shown here: Berroco Kodiak (61% baby alpaca, 24% nylon, 15% merino wool; 125 yd 115 m/50 g): color #7020 Crowberry, 3 balls Needles Size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm): 24” (60 cm) circular (cir) and pair of double-pointed (dpn). Size U.S. 9 (5.5 mm): 24” (60 cm) circular (cir). Size U.S. 101⁄2 (6.5 mm): 24” (60 cm) circular (cir). Size U.S. 11 (8 mm) 32” (80 cm) circular (cir). Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauges. Notions Marker (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle. Gauge 16 sts and 23 rnds = 4” (10 cm) over cable patt using size U.S. 9 (5.5 mm) needle. 121⁄2 sts and 18 rnds = 4” (10 cm) over cable patt using size U.S. 11 (8 mm) needle. See it on Ravelry
Today's Rugged Knits pattern highlight was one of the first designs I had in mind for this collection, even before I really had the plan for the book fleshed out. I'd been wanting to do gray and gold colorwork forever, and it took a lot of charting and swatching before I got this one right. Sean, my husband, designed the color motifs, and the resulting sweater is one I really love. The concept for this was to have a sweater that would be light and relaxed. I wanted something that would have a comfortable oversized fit, but not look like it was just too big. Slender sleeves and carefully-shaped shoulders create a fit that's flattering and casual.
CONSTRUCTION - This is a drop shoulder pullover knit bottom-up in the round to the underarms. Then the front and back are worked separately back and forth in rows. The sleeves are worked all in the round, and all of the colorwork takes place in sections that are worked in the round, so you'll never have to work color patterns on the wrong side. - There are a few rounds in which 3 colors are worked at once, so this is most suitable for knitters with a bit of stranded colorwork experience. - Shoulders are shaped with short rows and joined with 3-needle bind-off - Sleeves are worked separately from the body and then sewn into the armholes with mattress stitch. - Necessary finishing is minimized - just join the shoulders, sew in the sleeves, weave in the ends, and block. FIT - The body fit is oversized. Gentle waist shaping, short row shoulder shaping, and a wide, scooped neckline help maintain a feminine, flattering silhouette with a related fit. - When choosing a size, be sure to follow the ease recommendation in the pattern. The finished garment should be approximately 8-10 in/20.5-25.5 cm larger than your actual bust circumference. If you choose a size with less ease, it's likely that the shoulders and sleeves will be too small for you. YARN I chose to use a yarn I totally love for this pullover - Brooklyn Tweed Loft. It's light and tweedy, and has wonderful colors. I adore how the colorwork is just a tiny bit muted thanks to the woolen spun construction of the yarn. It blooms beautifully when washed, and creates this gorgeous, light-as-air fabric that I can't get enough of. TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING - Because there aren't any side seams and the sweater is already oversized and a bit longer than standard, I don't recommend using any yarn that's slippery and likely to stretch out vertically. Wool that hasn't been treated to be machine washable is best. I'd avoid superwash wool, silk, alpaca, and plant fibres like cotton. - If you want the ultralight feel that the sample shows, pick a woolen spun (rather than worsted spun) yarn. - Jamieson & Smith 2 Ply Jumper Weight could be a good woolen spun alternative. It's a bit rougher and less buttery than the Loft, but it also seems a little stronger and more rustic to me. It also comes in a huge range of colors and is generally a fantastic yarn for color work. Be sure to swatch to check that the fabric is as cohesive as you want before beginning. - Harrisville Designs Shetland is a similar option. MY FAVORITE DETAIL I love how the sleeve cuff details reflect the main body colorwork.
GENERAL TIPS There are a few rounds that require working with three colors at once, so be prepared to focus a little more intensely for a bit in the middle of the colorwork sections.
Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #GleamingHorizon, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Lily Toes projects! UPCOMING EVENTS . I'll be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58)” (91.5 106.5, 117, 127, 137, 147.5 cm) bust circumference and 263⁄4 (27, 28, 291⁄4, 301⁄2, 311⁄2)” (68 68.5, 71, 74.5, 77.5, 80 cm) long. Intended to be worn with 8–10” (20.5–25.5 cm) of positive ease. Shown in size 42” (106.5 cm).
Yarn Fingering weight (#1 Super Fine). Main Color (MC): 1210 (1336, 1479, 1622, 1771, 1914) yd (1106 1222, 1352, 1483, 1619, 1750 m). Contrast Color 1 (CC1): 236 (259, 285, 310, 334, 359) yd (216 237, 260, 283, 305, 328 m). Contrast Color 2 (CC2): 81 (89, 97, 106, 114, 122) yd (74 81, 89, 97, 104, 112 m). Contrast Color 3 (CC3): 17 (19, 21, 23, 25, 27) yd (16 17, 19, 21, 23, 25 m). Shown here: Brooklyn Tweed Loft (100% Targhee-Columbia wool; 275 yd 251 m/50 g skein): colors Soot (MC), 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) skeins; Snowbound (CC1), 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); Hayloft (CC2), 1 skein; Fossil (CC3), 1 skein. Needles Size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm) 16” and 32” (40 and 80 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double- pointed (dpn). Size U.S. 6 (4 mm) 16” and 32” (40 and 80 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauges. Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle. Gauge 24 sts and 41 rows = 4” (10 cm) over St st using smaller needles. 24 sts and 30 rnds = 4” (10 cm) over chart patt using larger needles. See it on Ravelry
