|
I've had colorwork on the brain lately, planning for my upcoming class at Knit Fit in Seattle, so this week I'm going to highlight Passing Glacier, a worsted weight hat that's relatively quick to knit with a big payoff. This is a very toasty hat that will keep you comfy in the coldest weather.
CONSTRUCTION
- This hat starts off with a provisional cast-on so that you can work a soft inner brim. I used Road to China Light, a sport weight luxury yarn for mine. Once you've completed the inside of the brim you'll switch to the contrast color of your main yarn and work a turning round, followed by the outside of the brim, worked in wide vertical stripes. Then you'll remove your provisional cast-on and join the live inner brim stitches to the outer brim, making a cozy, clean doubled brim with a secret soft layer inside.
- The rest of the hat is worked following color charts to get a gorgeous swirling stitch pattern.
- The crown decreases are incorporated into the color pattern.
FIT
- This is a snug beanie that comes in three sizes to fit ladies and gents.
YARN
I used Istex Lettlopi for the main yarn and Fibre Company Road to China Light for the inside-brim yarn. I love that Lettlopi is incredibly warm and insulating, and it has that lovely bit of a halo too. Some folks can find it a bit scratchy, so I opted for a luxurious super soft yarn for the inside of the brim.
TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- Stick with a hearty wool yarn for warmth, durability, and easy colorwork. Wool has good elasticity, which is more forgiving in colorwork than plant fibres, silk, or alpaca.
- For a rustic, tweedy look, try one of my favorite worsted or aran yarns like Brooklyn Tweed Shelter, Imperial Yarn Columbia, or Cestari Traditional Two Ply.
- Use up your luxury sock yarn leftovers for the inside of the brim.
- Try working this up in your favorite hand dyed worsted for a more watercolor look.
MY FAVORITE DETAIL
I love the secret soft inner brim and I'm particularly proud of the crown.
GENERAL TIPS
Be sure to use colors that have a strong contrast to make your color pattern pop. If you're not sure how well the colors contrast, take a picture of them together in black and white - if they still have a strong contrast without color, you're on the right track. For general colowork tips, check out the blog post I wrote for VeryShannon.com.
Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #PassingGlacierHat, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Passing Glacier projects!
UPCOMING EVENTS
I'll be teaching three workshops at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements
19.25 (20.75, 22.5)” (49 52.5, 57 cm) head circumference and 7.5” (19 cm) long.
Shown in size 20.75” (52.5 cm)
Yarn
Worsted weight (#4 medium):
Main Color (MC): 67 (72, 78) yd (61 66, 71 m).
Contrast Color 1 (CC1): 41 (45, 48) yd (37 41, 44 m).
Shown here: Ístex Lettlopi (100% wool; 109 yd 100 m/50 g): colors #0053 Acorn Heather (MC), 1 skein; #0054 Light Ash Heather (CC1), 1 skein.
Sportweight (#2 Fine): 26 (28, 30) yd (24 25, 27 m).
Shown here: The Fibre Company Road to China Light (65% baby alpaca, 15% silk, 10% camel, 10% cashmere; 159 yd 145 m/50 g): color #710 Riverstone (CC2), 1 skein
Needles
Size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm): 16” (40 cm) circular (cir).
Size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): 16” (40 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn).
Size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm): 16” (40 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn).
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions
Markers (m); size U.S. E-4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook; waste yarn; tapestry needle.
Gauge
20 sts and 22 = 4” (10 cm) over chart using largest needles
See it on Ravelry
This week I'm going to interrupt my Rugged Knits pattern highlights to talk about two new patterns that I published as part of a collaboration with some fantastic BC designers and a great local yarn company. Hinterland yarns are totally Canadian, with alpaca fibre from alpacas right here in Victoria that blended with Canadian wool at an Alberta mill. The yarn is perfect for this region - woolen spun, rustic, warm, and soft. It blooms like nothing I've ever seen before and I'm totally smitten with it.
Photos by Hanahlie Beise, 2016
My designs for the collection are Camber, a sophisticated, textured vest, and Halyard, a very cozy cardigan with an enormous collar.
Both garments are worked in pieces. You can, of course, modify them to be worked seamlessly if you like, but here's why I, myself want seams:
- I often find it more relaxing to work smaller pieces. It means I don't have to keep track of quite as many "at the same time" instructions. This can be especially helpful if you're new to making garments.
- I like the portability of smaller pieces.
- I like the satisfaction of finishing each piece.
- Seams add stability and durability.
- I find mattress stitch to be pretty magical - it's so neat and beautiful!
A little more about each pattern:
CAMBER
This vest is worked bottom-up with subtle waist shaping, a deep V neckline, and short row shoulder shaping for a flattering fit. It's got a clean silhouette with simple garter edgings. It's intended to be worn fairly fitted, with 0-3 in/0-7.5 cm of ease - if you plan to wear it over heavier layers, I recommend rounding up the size you make.
I adore the Hinterland Range yarn for this, as it give gorgeous stitch definition, but with the slightest halo and a beautifully cohesive fabric. If you do want to substitute, you for a heavy worsted or aran weight yarn like Imperial Yarn Columbia or Cestari Traditional Collection 2 Ply. Since it's got seams for added stability I'd be super curious to see this in a semi-solid hand dyed yarn like Hazel Knits Cadence.
Note on errata: A kind knitter pointed out to me that there were a couple of numbers problems with the back neckline and the short row shoulder shaping. I've corrected those numbers, so the pattern on Ravelry is now correct. If you already have the pattern, here's a link to the full explanation of the errata.
Pattern Specs
Sizes and Finished Measurements
Bust Circumference: 32 (37, 39.25, 44.25, 48, 52.25, 56.5, 60.75) in/81.5 (94, 99.5, 112.5, 122, 132.5, 143.5, 154.5) cm
Intended to be worn with +0-3 in/0-7.5 cm of ease at bust; shown in size 32 in/81.5 cm with +1 in/2.5 cm of ease on model
Yarn
522 (603, 640, 721, 782, 852, 921, 990) yd/477 (551, 585, 659, 715, 779, 842, 905) m worsted weight yarn
Shown in Hinterland Range (50% Rambouillet Wool, 50% Alpaca; 198 yd/181 m per 112 g/4 oz skein); Color: Honey; 3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) skeins
Blocked Gauge
Gauge measurement should be taken after blocking.
17 sts/28 rows = 4 in/10 cm in Textured Garter Rib Pattern with larger needles
Needles & Notions
Needle sizes are recommendations only; always use needle size necessary to achieve given gauge.
US #4/3.5 mm 16 in/40 cm circular needle US #4/3.5 mm 40 in/100 cm circular needle US #7/4.5 mm needle
tapestry needle
three .75 in/2 cm buttons
Skills
working shaping in Garter Rib Pattern, short row shaping, increasing and decreasing, picking up stitches
CAMBER: $8 pdf download
HALYARD
This cardigan is worked in pieces from the bottom-up. The construction is simple, but it's got some really special details!
- The back hem is longer than the front and, when sewing up, the front and back hem are left split.
- The cuffs are extra long, and the second half of the cuff seams are worked inside out so that they don't show when you turn the cuffs up.
- The collar is super easy to work - it's just ribbing without any shaping. You can also button it in two different ways so that it crosses over the front or just folds down.
- The sleeve caps and armholes are different for the front and back, making for a great fit.
My yarn recommendations for Camber apply to this one too, so check above for substituting suggestions.
Pattern Specs
Sizes and Finished Measurements
Bust Circumference: 35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 63) in/89 (99, 109, 119.5, 129.5, 139.5, 150, 160) cm including bands
Intended to be worn with +2-4 in/5-10 cm of ease at bust for standard fit; shown in size 34 in/86.5 cm with +3 in/7.5 cm of ease on model
Yarn
1253 (1397, 1540, 1683, 1826, 1970, 2113, 2256) yd/1146 (1277, 1408, 1539, 1670, 1801, 1932, 2063) m worsted weight yarn
Shown in Hinterland Range (50% Rambouillet Wool, 50% Alpaca; 198 yd/181 m per 112g/4oz skein)
Color: Truffle; 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) skeins
Blocked Gauge
Gauge measurement should be taken after blocking.
18 sts/26 rows = 4 in/10 cm in St st
Needles & Notions
Needle sizes are recommendations only; always use needle size necessary to achieve given gauge.
US #7/4.5 mm 32 in/80 cm circular needle (Project is worked in pieces so a circular needle isn’t required, but a circular needle will make working the collar and button bands more manageable.)
tapestry needle
seven .75 in/2 cm buttons
Skills
seaming (mattress stitch), picking up stitches, increasing and decreasing
SEE IT ON RAVELRY
HALYARD: $8 pdf download
Blackberry Grove is one of those effortless accessories that you can throw over any outfit to add cozy comfort and a pop of color.
CONSTRUCTION
- Cowl is worked top-down and uses progressively larger needle sizes to get a draping fabric and a great shape.
- It's got I-cord edgings for a clean finish. The bottom edge is worked with an I-cord bind-off and the top edge is finished by working attached I-cord at the end.
FIT
- This cowl drapes beautifully around your neck because the bottom edge is wider than the top edge.
YARN
I went with a bulky, super fluffy yarn because I was going for a soft, elegant look. Sadly the yarn I used, Berroco Kodiak, has been discontinued. Your local yarn shop may still be carrying it, and I recommend snatching up a few skeins if you can find it.
TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- To get the drape shown in the sample, stick with yarns that either have some fiber content like alpaca or silk, or are loosely spun.
- If you want a look similar to the sample but can't find Kodiak, Rowan Brushed Fleece could be a good alternative.
- Fibre Company Tundra could be a great option for ultimate softness without so much fluffy halo.
- For a soft, watercolor look, try Malabrigo Mecha.
MY FAVORITE DETAIL
The cables get progressively larger just because of the needle size difference and I'm all about how the scale of the pattern changes so subtly.
GENERAL TIPS
Try working the cables without a cable needle. It's so much faster!
Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #BlackberryGroveCowl, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Lily Toes projects!
UPCOMING EVENTS
I'll be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements
27.5” (70 cm) top circumference, 40” (101.5 cm) bottom circumference, and 11.5” (29 cm) long.
Yarn
253 yd (231 m) bulky weight (#5 Bulky).
Shown here: Berroco Kodiak (61% baby alpaca, 24% nylon, 15% merino wool; 125 yd 115 m/50 g): color #7020 Crowberry, 3 balls
Needles
Size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm): 24” (60 cm) circular (cir) and pair of double-pointed (dpn).
Size U.S. 9 (5.5 mm): 24” (60 cm) circular (cir).
Size U.S. 101⁄2 (6.5 mm): 24” (60 cm) circular (cir).
Size U.S. 11 (8 mm) 32” (80 cm) circular (cir).
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauges.
Notions
Marker (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.
Gauge
16 sts and 23 rnds = 4” (10 cm) over cable patt using size U.S. 9 (5.5 mm) needle.
121⁄2 sts and 18 rnds = 4” (10 cm) over cable patt using size U.S. 11 (8 mm) needle.
See it on Ravelry
Today's Rugged Knits pattern highlight was one of the first designs I had in mind for this collection, even before I really had the plan for the book fleshed out. I'd been wanting to do gray and gold colorwork forever, and it took a lot of charting and swatching before I got this one right. Sean, my husband, designed the color motifs, and the resulting sweater is one I really love. The concept for this was to have a sweater that would be light and relaxed. I wanted something that would have a comfortable oversized fit, but not look like it was just too big. Slender sleeves and carefully-shaped shoulders create a fit that's flattering and casual.
CONSTRUCTION
- This is a drop shoulder pullover knit bottom-up in the round to the underarms. Then the front and back are worked separately back and forth in rows. The sleeves are worked all in the round, and all of the colorwork takes place in sections that are worked in the round, so you'll never have to work color patterns on the wrong side.
- There are a few rounds in which 3 colors are worked at once, so this is most suitable for knitters with a bit of stranded colorwork experience.
- Shoulders are shaped with short rows and joined with 3-needle bind-off
- Sleeves are worked separately from the body and then sewn into the armholes with mattress stitch.
- Necessary finishing is minimized - just join the shoulders, sew in the sleeves, weave in the ends, and block.
FIT
- The body fit is oversized. Gentle waist shaping, short row shoulder shaping, and a wide, scooped neckline help maintain a feminine, flattering silhouette with a related fit.
- When choosing a size, be sure to follow the ease recommendation in the pattern. The finished garment should be approximately 8-10 in/20.5-25.5 cm larger than your actual bust circumference. If you choose a size with less ease, it's likely that the shoulders and sleeves will be too small for you.
YARN
I chose to use a yarn I totally love for this pullover - Brooklyn Tweed Loft. It's light and tweedy, and has wonderful colors. I adore how the colorwork is just a tiny bit muted thanks to the woolen spun construction of the yarn. It blooms beautifully when washed, and creates this gorgeous, light-as-air fabric that I can't get enough of.
TIPS FOR SUBSTITUTING
- Because there aren't any side seams and the sweater is already oversized and a bit longer than standard, I don't recommend using any yarn that's slippery and likely to stretch out vertically. Wool that hasn't been treated to be machine washable is best. I'd avoid superwash wool, silk, alpaca, and plant fibres like cotton.
- If you want the ultralight feel that the sample shows, pick a woolen spun (rather than worsted spun) yarn.
- Jamieson & Smith 2 Ply Jumper Weight could be a good woolen spun alternative. It's a bit rougher and less buttery than the Loft, but it also seems a little stronger and more rustic to me. It also comes in a huge range of colors and is generally a fantastic yarn for color work. Be sure to swatch to check that the fabric is as cohesive as you want before beginning.
- Harrisville Designs Shetland is a similar option.
MY FAVORITE DETAIL
I love how the sleeve cuff details reflect the main body colorwork.
GENERAL TIPS
There are a few rounds that require working with three colors at once, so be prepared to focus a little more intensely for a bit in the middle of the colorwork sections.
Be sure to use the hashtags #RuggedKnits, #GleamingHorizon, and #AndreaRangelKnits when you post pics of your Lily Toes projects!
UPCOMING EVENTS
.
I'll be at Knit Fit in Seattle November 12-13, 2016. I'm teaching two new classes, one on cables and one on colorwork, and if you missed out taking finishing at Knit City, you can take it in Seattle! Click here to sign up!
PATTERN DETAILS
Finished Measurements
38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58)” (91.5 106.5, 117, 127, 137, 147.5 cm) bust circumference and 263⁄4 (27, 28, 291⁄4, 301⁄2, 311⁄2)” (68 68.5, 71, 74.5, 77.5, 80 cm) long.
Intended to be worn with 8–10” (20.5–25.5 cm) of positive ease.
Shown in size 42” (106.5 cm).
Yarn
Fingering weight (#1 Super Fine).
Main Color (MC): 1210 (1336, 1479, 1622, 1771, 1914) yd (1106 1222, 1352, 1483, 1619, 1750 m).
Contrast Color 1 (CC1): 236 (259, 285, 310, 334, 359) yd (216 237, 260, 283, 305, 328 m).
Contrast Color 2 (CC2): 81 (89, 97, 106, 114, 122) yd (74 81, 89, 97, 104, 112 m).
Contrast Color 3 (CC3): 17 (19, 21, 23, 25, 27) yd (16 17, 19, 21, 23, 25 m).
Shown here: Brooklyn Tweed Loft (100% Targhee-Columbia wool; 275 yd 251 m/50 g skein): colors Soot (MC), 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) skeins; Snowbound (CC1), 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); Hayloft (CC2), 1 skein; Fossil (CC3), 1 skein.
Needles
Size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm) 16” and 32” (40 and
80 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double- pointed (dpn).
Size U.S. 6 (4 mm) 16” and 32” (40 and 80 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn).
Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauges.
Notions
Markers (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge
24 sts and 41 rows = 4” (10 cm) over St st using smaller needles.
24 sts and 30 rnds = 4” (10 cm) over chart patt using larger needles.
See it on Ravelry
|
|
|
