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The latest issue of Twist Collective is live and in it you can find more evidence of my obsession with surface design on knitted fabrics: Joist - pullovers designed for men and women.
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| Photo © Jane Heller 2013 |
I spend a lot of time swatching different textures and color patterns, and I get pretty excited working on fabric that's particularly sculptural. My first swatches for Joist were classic twisted-stitch lattice patterns straight out of Barbara Walker. They weren't substantial enough for my liking, though, so I tried out a few beefier cable patterns, but I still wasn't satisfied. I liked how the twisted-stitch lattice patterns were worked without purling - they relied on the twisting and direction of the stitches rather than on negative space created by purling. So I decided to give cabling a try with more stitches and without any purling. It took me quite a few tries to get the cables to be just the right volume, with deep enough valleys in between the cables, but once I had that swatch, I was in love. Not only do the cables have a strong, geometric directionality, but the stockinette stitch that forms the background also points one way, then the other, which is one of those lovely little things you have to get close up to notice.
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| Photo © Jane Heller 2013 |
My original plan for Joist was to make a men's pullover. I always want to add to the current library of men's patterns that men hopefully want to knit for themselves. The fabric I ended up with is quite thick due to the heavy cabling, and worked up in a woolen spun yarn like Brooklyn Tweed Shelter, it's especially insulating. Not only do the cables create lots of places for warm air to get trapped next to the body, but the yarn itself also has lots of little air pockets. The woolen spun nature of the yarn is also helpful for keeping the sweater to a manageable weight. All that thick fabric can make a pretty heavy sweater and I like the relative lightness of the Shelter. It makes for a great outdoorsy sweater that looks classic, but is extra cozy and warm.
What usually happens as I work on men's sweaters, though, is that I end up wanting one for myself. I love to wear my sample of Traverse and it has a fantastic slouchy boyfriend sweater fit that goes really well with my usual leggings, short skirt, and clompy boots look. But with Joist, I wanted a version designed to be specifically flattering to women too.
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| Photo © Jane Heller 2013 |
Both versions include waist shaping, but the men's is simple reverse A-line shaping, while the women's has hourglass-style shaping. Since the fabric is fairly thick, it's helpful to have this shaping for a well-fitting sweater.
Aside from the fantastic cabled lattice stitch pattern, the sweaters have lots of other special design features. The ribbing at the cuffs and hem looks like regular two-by-two rib, but it includes slipped stitches that help the ribs to stand out, making them conform more closely to the look of the cables. The yoke is worked in an Elizabeth Zimmermann-inspired seamless construction. The armholes and sleeve caps have the shape of set-in sleeves, but end in saddle shoulders that continue the established cable pattern and create a comfortable shoulder and sleeve cap section. Shaping details prevent the sharp corner look that saddle shoulder construction can sometimes have.
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| Photo © Jane Heller 2013 |
The collar is worked in a pretty unique way as well. The construction was inspired by the classic Cowichan-style collars that are usually done at a huge gauge in garter stitch. I adapted that style to work with ribbing to mirror the cuffs and hem. It's quite magical and I hope you'll enjoy it as much as I did.
Thanks to the Twist Collective team for their beautiful styling and photography!
Twist Collective Winter 2013
See the patterns in Twist Collective
See the patterns on Ravelry
Pattern Info
MEN'S VERSION
Finished Measurements
Chest: 38 (42, 44 3⁄4, 48, 50 3⁄4, 54, 56 3⁄4)” / 96.5 (106.5, 113.5, 122, 129, 137, 144) cm
Intended to be worn with 3–4” / 7.5–10 cm ease.
Yarn
1800 (1990, 2120, 2274, 2404, 2558, 2688) yd/ 1265 (1400, 1505, 1630, 1735, 1840, 1965) m worsted weight yarn
Shown in Brooklyn Tweed Shelter (100% Wool, 140 yd/128 m per 50g skein)
Color: #26 Stormcloud; 13 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) skeins
Gauge
29 sts and 27 rnds = 4” / 10 cm over chart pattern using larger needle after blocking
Needles and Notions
Size 6 US / 4 mm circular needle 32” / 80 cm long
Size 6 US / 4 mm needles in preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round
Size 9 US / 5.5 mm circular needle 32” / 80 cm long
Size 9 US / 5.5 mm needles in preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
stitch markers
waste yarn
tapestry needle
cable needle
Skills
working in the round
cabling
shaping in pattern
picking up stitches
grafting using Kitchener stitch
WOMEN'S VERSION
Finished Measurements
Bust: 33 (36 1⁄2, 39 1⁄4, 42 1⁄2, 45 1⁄4, 48, 51 1⁄4)” / 84 (92.5, 99.5, 108, 115, 122, 130) cm
Intended to be worn with 3–4” / 7.5–10 cm ease.
Yarn
1385 (1530, 1645, 1780, 1895, 2010, 2145) yd/ 1265 (1400, 1505, 1630, 1735, 1840, 1965) m worsted weight yarn
Shown in Brooklyn Tweed Shelter (100% Wool, 140 yd/128 m per 50g skein)
Color: #09 Camper; 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16) skeins
Gauge
29 sts and 27 rnds = 4” / 10 cm over chart pattern using larger needle after blocking
Needles and Notions
Size 6 US / 4 mm circular needle 32” / 80 cm long
Size 6 US / 4 mm needles in preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round
Size 9 US / 5.5 mm circular needle 32” / 80 cm long
Size 9 US / 5.5 mm needles in preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
stitch markers
waste yarn
tapestry needle
cable needle
Skills
working in the round
cabling
shaping in pattern
picking up stitches
grafting using Kitchener stitch
I get pretty attached to all of my designs by the time publication rolls around, but I have to say, I feel especially proud of this one. Partly that's because I worked hard to make it just right (and frogged oh-so-many times), but also because of the publication venue. It's so exciting for me to be included in Brooklyn Tweed's Wool People Series.
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| Photo © Brooklyn Tweed/Jared Flood 2013 |
Tree Rings starts with Elizabeth Zimmermann's pi shawl concept, but takes in a slightly different direction than usual. While most pi shawls employ lace patterns, I wanted something that would be rich in surface texture and show directional movement. The edging has some lace included (my nod to tradition), but it's mostly intended to mirror the angular shapes in the rest of the piece. A softer, somewhat floral motif is included in the center to add a gentler mood.
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| Photo © Brooklyn Tweed/Jared Flood 2013 |
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I don't usually focus very much on pattern names, but I love what the Brooklyn Tweed team decided to call the pattern. Tree Rings evokes just the right feeling of nature combined with geometry. Thanks to whoever thought of such a perfect name!
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| Photo © Brooklyn Tweed/Jared Flood 2013 |
You can find Tree Rings and a dozen other incredible patterns from Wool People 6 over on the Brooklyn Tweed website:
I can't remember when I first heard that Tolt Yarn and Wool was coming, but it seems like it was a whisper that's just gotten louder and clearer until finally yesterday the shop opened to the expected very warm welcome.
The shop is a knitter's dream, and I'm thrilled to get to be a part of it. Last summer Anna, the genius behind the shop, asked me to contribute a set of patterns inspired by the history and natural beauty of the area around Carnation.
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Photo © Anna Dianich 2013
We wanted the designs to be particularly northwest-y, so Anna suggested I use Imperial Yarns Columbia and Spincycle Yarns 100% BFL Worsted. I love the combination of the rustic, tweedy Columbia with the handspun, saturated Spincycle BFL.
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| Photo © Anna Dianich 2013 |
Since the designs are the first (of hopefully many!) Tolt shop patterns, I wanted them to be approachable for a variety of knitters. The color work is straight-forward, and several of my testers who had never tried stranded color work before appreciated the simplicity of the color patterns to help them learn how. (Check out this great recent blog entry by Dianna Walla on color dominance for more thoughts on stranded color work.)
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| Photo © Anna Dianich 2013 |
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The patterns are both designed to work equally well for men and women, and the hat can be worn in a variety of ways - fold the brim up for a beanie look, or leave it long to get some slouch.
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| Photo © Anna Dianich 2013 |
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Not only is the triangles motif great as a basic color work pattern, but it's actually an interpretation of a couple of water symbols - one a W-like figure, and the other a simple triangle. (Check out the Pinterest board Anna and I worked on for more of our inspiration.) Since the Tolt River has always been a vital part of life for the people who have lived in this part of Washington, it was natural for me to incorporate something that suggested waves and water in patterns called Tolt. The clean geometry of the motifs is also a nod to the shapes that were traditionally woven into blankets in this region.
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| Photo © Anna Dianich 2013 |
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The patterns are sold as a set and I strongly suggest heading down to Carnation so you can pick them up along with the yarn. Anna has two color combinations available - the "Devilish Grin" and "Desert Landscape" version shown in the photos, or a "Greed" (a brilliant gold) and "Charcoal" set.
If you can't make it to Carnation, you can also pick the patterns up on Ravelry. Just purchase either one to get both patterns. If you're curious how they knit up in other colors, check out the projects on Ravelry. (Thanks so much to my wonderful pattern testers!)
Photo © Anna Dianich 2013
Pattern Info
The Tolt Hat and Mitts are sold as a pair. You’ll get both patterns when you buy either one for $8.
The patterns are available in digital form via my website and Ravelry, as well as in print in the brick-and-mortar shop, Tolt Yarn and Wool in Carnation, Washington, along with the yarn to knit them.
TOLT HAT
Finished Measurements
Adult Sizes S (M, L); shown in size M
Brim Circumference: 18 (20, 22) in / 46 (51, 56) cm
Yarn
Main Color
Approximately 100 (110, 120) yd / 82 (92, 100) m worsted weight yarn
Shown in Imperial Yarn Columbia (100% Wool, 220 yd / 201 m per 113g skein) Color: #119 Desert Landscape; 1 skein
Contrast Color
Approximately 50 (55, 60) yd / 45 (50, 55) m worsted weight yarn
Shown in Spincycle Yarns BFL Worsted (100% Wool, 120 yd / 110 m) Color: Devilish Grin; 1 skein
Gauge
18 sts / 26 rnds = 4 in / 10 cm in plain Stockinette stitch with Size B
20 sts / 26 rnds = 4 in / 10 cm in color work stitch pattern with Size B needles
16 sts / 24 rnds = 4 in / 10 cm in stretched 2 x 2 Rib pattern using Size A needles
Needles and Notions
Needle sizes are recommendations only; always use needle size necessary to achieve given gauge.
Needle A
US #6 / 4.00 mm 16 in / 40 cm circular needle
Needle B
US #8 / 5 mm 16 in / 40 cm circular needle
Needle C
US #8 / 5 mm set double pointed needles, 32 in / 80 cm circular needle for magic loop method, or 2 circular needles; use preferred small- circumference method.
Stitch markers
tapestry needle
Skills
working in the round, ribbing, stranded color work, decreasing including ssk, K2tog, and centered double decrease
TOLT MITTS
Finished Measurements
Adult Sizes XS (S, M, L); shown in size S
Hand Circumference: 6.5 (7.25, 8, 9.5) in / 16.5 (18.5, 20.5, 24) cm
Yarn
Main Color
Approximately 110 (120, 135, 160) yd / 100 (110, 120, 145) m worsted weight yarn
Shown in Imperial Yarn Columbia (100% Wool, 220 yd / 201 m per 113g skein). Color: #119 Desert Landscape; 1 skein.
Contrast Color
Approximately 45 (50, 55, 65) yd / 40 (45, 50, 60)m worsted weight yarn
Shown in Spincycle Yarns BFL Worsted (100% Wool, 120 yd / 110 m). Color: Devilish Grin; 1 skein.
Gauge
18 sts / 26 rnds = 4 in / 10 cm in plain Stockinette stitch with Size B
20 sts / 26 rnds = 4 in / 10 cm in color work stitch pattern with Size B needles
16 sts / 24 rnds = 4 in / 10 cm in stretched 2 x 2 Rib pattern using Size A needles
Needles and Notions
Needle sizes are recommendations only; always use needle size necessary to achieve given gauge.
Needle A
US #6 / 4.00 mm set double pointed needles, 32 in / 80 cm circular needle for magic loop method, or 2 circular needles; use preferred small- circumference method.
Needle B
US #8 / 5 mm set double pointed needles, 32 in / 80 cm circular needle for magic loop method, or 2 circular needles; use preferred small- circumference method.
Waste yarn
place markers
tapestry needle
Skills
working in the round, ribbing, stranded color work, shaping using increases and decreases
This past month has been pretty intensely packed. Welcoming my TRIFECTA crew was refreshing and fun, and it kicked off a whole month of fiber-y craziness. The following weekend I hosted a tiny retreat, teaching and learning about the Cowichan Valley and the Coast Salish knitting tradition. Then I took part in the Cowichan Fleece and Fibre Fair, and then traveled to Seattle to teach at Knit Fit and do a fairly massive photo shoot.
I'm finally catching my breath and am excited for lots of amazing things to come. In the meantime, I'd like to share our Cowichan weekend in pictures. Almost all these photos were taken by the incredible Kathy Cadigan. You can find even more pictures and info about the weekend on the Tolt Yarn and Wool blog.
We got to see and try on so many sweaters.
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Anna trying on a beautiful sweater with pockets! She made that pom pom hat too.
Photo © Kathy Cadigan 2013 |
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This is a vintage genuine Cowichan sweater knit for Leola Witt-McNie of Leola's Studio.
Photo © Kathy Cadigan 2013 |
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I love Anna's new vest! If you stop by her shop, you may get to see it in person.
Photo © Kathy Cadigan 2013 |
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A selection of Cowichan and Cowichan-inspired sweater we saw at the Duncan Farmer's Market. There were lots more!
Photo © Kathy Cadigan 2013 |
Having so many sweaters around allowed us to study them pretty intensely.
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See how different the inside of the color work is from Fair Isle? They use a technique that basically catches the float every stitch. We were pretty fascinated by this.
Photo © Kathy Cadigan 2013 |
We had a great time at the Duncan Farmer's Market.
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| Photo © Kathy Cadigan 2013 |
And we met a lot of adorable animals at The Happy Goat Farm.
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All the animals wanted to say hello! (I regularly eat eggs that those chickens lay.)
Photo © Kathy Cadigan 2013 |
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| Photo © Kathy Cadigan 2013 |
Last weekend when I went down to Seattle for Knit Fit, I got to visit Anna's new yarn shop before it opened up. I have to say that Tolt Yarn and Wool is completely my dream yarn shop. The space is open and rustic and perfect, and her yarn selection has just the right mix of woolly wools and luxury fibres.
I'm honored to have worked with the shop to create two new patterns that celebrate their grand opening, which is happening on Saturday, November 9, 2013! You can get a sneak peak at the Tolt Hat and Mitts on Ravelry before they go on sale tomorrow. If you're a knitter within driving distance of Carnation, Washington, you need to be at their shop tomorrow to see what they've been working so hard on! You'll even be able to get kits that include the new patterns and the Spincycle and Imperial yarn to knit them up.
Happy fall!
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Tolt Hat and Mitts
Photo © Anna Dianich 2013 |
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